Touring Tipperary MALCOLM ROGERS visits Tipp, traversing the county from the North Riding to the South Riding.
 Legions of people throughout the world know the name Tipperary but couldn’t place it on the map. There are even those who are familiar with the name, but remain totally unaware that it is in Ireland.
The reason for Tipperary’s fame is, of course, the song. The exact geographical origins are often argued about, particularly as to whether it refers to the Irish county, or to Tipperary Barracks in London, or indeed to a brothel.
But what we do know is that the song was written by Jack Judge and Harry Williams, popularised during World War I by the Connacht Rangers, and the rest is, as they say, ethno-musicology.
It may be a long way to Tipperary, but the song certainly put the county on the map. The middle of the map in fact —Tipp is in the centre of Ireland, surrounded by nine counties. (For your homework next time, name them.)
Of course, those of a pedantic nature will realise that Tipperary, being Ireland’s largest inland county and surrounded by so many other counties, it’s unlikely to be a particularly long way from anywhere. Quite correct — and better than that, its proximity to the epicentre of Irish affairs has left its mark, with more castles than you could shake a bayonet at, and religious ruins at just about every crossroads.
Nowhere is the county’s involvement in Irish affairs better exemplified than the Rock of Cashel. Tipperary’s most dramatic feature, the 200ft rock is topped by towers and turrets of splendid medieval architecture. The Rock of Cashel and accompanying fortifications would make their way onto any list of the top 10 castles in the world. Rising dramatically out of the plains of Tipperary, this rocky stronghold has kept vigil over the midlands of Ireland for over a thousand years.
This was the seat of the kings of Munster from the fifth century until the middle ages when Cashel was handed over to the Church. It flourished as a religious centre until Cromwell’s men badly disturbed the ecclesiastical tranquillity. The 3,000 inhabitants of the monastery were “put to the sword”, as news reports back then would have put it, following which the establishment changed hands many times.
The cathedral was last regularly used for religious purposes in the late 18th century, but today it is one of Ireland’s most visited spots. However, go at the right time — early morning, late afternoon — and the place still casts an atmospheric spell. So powerful, in fact, that the legend of the devil flying over the plains of Tipperary seems perfectly sensible. The Fiend, you see, was cruising about Tipperary, with a large piece of rock in his mouth (I expect you can see what’s coming next).
St Patrick suddenly appeared, ready to found his new church on the site, and the devil, in his surprise, dropped the Rock of Cashel out of his mouth.
Although the remains of Ireland’s religious history is impressive, it is not unique. Neither, for that matter, is Ireland’s scenery in general. Spectacular though it is in places, its equal can be seen in all four corners of the globe. Even the legendary friendliness of the people is something that other countries can rival, or even surpass — Thailand was recently voted, in a Rough Guide poll, the world’s friendliest holiday destination.
But the one thing about Ireland which is unique is the GAA. Nowhere else in the world does a sporting body have the influence which the GAA exerts in every sphere of Irish society. Take DJ Carey, the Kilkenny hurling captain. He could have been Ireland’s out half in the international rugby team, he could have played soccer for Manchester United or Real Madrid. But instead he decided to stay at home, sell agricultural implements, and captain his county. An extraordinarily unique phenomenon.
And it was in the Tipperary town that it all started. The GAA was first set up in Thurles, in Hayes Hotel. You can still visit the hotel where in 1884 the association was first drawn up, or pop into Lár na Páirce where a visitor centre illustrates the history of Gaelic games from the earliest times. And when they say “early” they mean it —hurling goes back to pre-Christian times, as you can find out with a visit to the GAA museum. (Tel: 00 353 504 23579)
Not far from Thurles lies one of Ireland’s most picturesque Christian monuments, the spiritually uplifting Holy Cross Abbey. Here on the banks of the Suir Donal O’Brien, King of Thomond founded a monastery in 1169 for monks of the Cistercian Order, and a fine job he made of it, because most of the walls are still standing.
However, if you’ve had enough monasteries for one day, thank you very much, then keep on heading out west towards Lough Derg. The Tipp side of this lough, the largest of the “Shannon pools”, is dotted with soporifically beautiful villages, ideal for whiling away an afternoon or evening. Or you can take to the water. The 32,000 acres of calm, clear water, teeming with fish, surrounded on all sides by beautiful countryside, is yours to discover under sail, by cruiser, canoe or by car or by bicycle.
Tipperary has its tourist spots. It also has its lonely spots, like the Knockmealdown and Galtee Mountains. And it has the glorious pastureland of the Golden Vale. Lough Derg provides angling and water sports, while the banks of the Shannon offer some of the loveliest walks in Europe.
Music and craic are not hard to find either — in towns such as Clonmel, Cahir or Tipperary town itself there’s always a hostelry going at full throttle.
In conclusion, I am now obliged by long tradition to quote the words of the Song, “Good bye, Piccadilly, farewell...”.
No, what I think I’ll do instead is read to you from a sign on the main road into the county which says: “You’ve come a long way to get here. But you’re going to enjoy it.”
Hear, hear, and my heart certainly goes there.
Five Tipperary sights not to miss
The Glen of Aherlow, in the south of the county provides some beautiful pastoral country, wooded hills, enchanting waterways. Without an iota of exaggeration, this is one of the most beautiful areas of Europe, on a par with the Dordogne or the uplands of Tuscany.
Cahir Castle, set on a rock islet in the middle of the Suir, dates for the 13th century. The castle played its part in the Elizabethan and Cromwellian wars, and was once considered impregnable. This was regarded as the definitive defensive castle of its day, cutting-edge fortification. It’s open daily the year round. Tel: 00 353 52 42324.
Tipperary Town Museum is a must for those interested in the War of Independence (1919-21). Tipperary was a particularly hot spot during the war, and is the home of Sean Tracey (of “Tipperary so far away” fame), whose battalion fired the first shots in the war.
Join the biking hordes: Keeper Hill Cycle Route, Holycross Cycle Route and
Clare Glen’s Cycle are three separate, signposted routes which take you through the leafy, quiet glades of the North Riding of Tipperary. Contact the Tourist Office, Connolly Street. Tel: 00 353 67 31610.
A few miles from the Rock, on the N74, lie the remains of Athassel Abbey on the banks of the Suir. There used to be a town here surrounding the abbey — as was often the case in Ireland — but the townsfolk were massacred and their buildings torched during the 14th century, as was often the case in Ireland. Today, standing on the banks of the Suir you can look back at the extensive ruins of the abbey and imagine the ghosts who stood on those same banks 700 years ago, contemplating the landscape until their peace was brutally shattered. Spooky enough.
A pleasant place to stay
Fairymount Farm is where John and Linda Kenny breed horses, rear sheep and organically farm on a lock of acres near Ballingarry.
The Kennys’ forebears have been working the land hereabouts for the last couple of centuries, amidst ancient oak groves and pastureland lined by centuries-old hedges.
Today, you can enjoy all this history and verdant beauty by staying in the Kennys’ self-catering accommodation.
Self-catering cottages run from E270 per cottage per week to E490. One cottage is three-star, the other is four-star. The latter has two double rooms, two singles, and a sofa bed. You’ll find all the mod cons, such as a TV, etc, plus a conservatory, which is excellent for watching the stars. There’s a patio too, and barbecue facilities.
And for the odd time that the weather turns inclement there are turf fires and central heating.
n Contact the farm: Fairymount Farm Self-Catering, Ballingarry, Roscrea, Co. Tipperary. Tel: 00353 67-21139. Mob: 00 353 87-2726729. E-mail: kennyfrm@iol.i
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