| There’s more to Belfast than meets the eye
Liam O’Leary takes a whirlwind tour of the many and varied attractions of the increasingly cosmopolitan city of Belfast.
Belfast —
the uniquely entertaining
and bracing capital of Northern Ireland — feels something like a vibrant combination of Britain, Ireland and America intertwined.
One minute you’re cheering the Belfast Giants, the city’s ice-hockey team and current UK Play-Off champions, at the Odyssey Arena by the winding River Lagan, the next you’re enjoying a pint of Guinness, Irish stew and some musical “craic” in a downtown pub, while planning a taxi trip like no other in the world.
But Belfast’s hallmark, its foremost unforgettable feature, is its people, their constant friendliness and humour. Whatever the weather, the welcome is warm, from the moment you land at the airport or step off the high-speed ferry from Scotland.
You’ll find the travel costs welcoming too, these days, with low-cost flights and ferry tickets leaving ample cash in your pocket.
Yet Belfast boasts sights that money can’t buy, surrounded as it is by hills and scenic landscape at the head of Belfast Lough. You are just a short journey away by hire car from the dramatic Mountains of Mourne, which loom like a picture postcard vista above the glistening Irish Sea, or the world famous Giant’s Causeway.
The trick to making your trip momentous is simply this: plan key moments, bite-sized chunks, while allowing space for spontaneity, time to relish the unexpected, from outdoor music in the parks to a sudden mural just round the corner.
Very walkable and compact, the city centre is a huddle of busy streets crammed with history that’s alive, mingled with shopping that’s bang up to date. Many areas are now pedestrianised, and the downtown malls and stores, often housed in Victorian buildings, are close to the grand old City Hall. City Hall tours (admission is free, with a guide provided) are one of the many touring attractions.
Citybus tours combine the new, such as the magnificent Belfast Waterfront Hall by the river, with the old, like the glorious high-Victorian architectural gems that stud Great Victoria Street. Among them are the Grand Opera House, now restored, and the Crown Liquor Saloon, lit by gaslight.
The oohing and aahing doesn’t stop there. Step out on a walking tour of the Old Town, tracing the city’s 17th century beginnings, or opt for a tour of historic pubs, including White’s Tavern (one of Belfast’s oldest) and Kelly’s Cellars.
Otherwise, hit the Titanic Trail, unique and full of fascinating stories, which commemorate the ill-fated liner, built in Belfast in 1912. A self-guided tour includes an opportunity to cruise down to see where the Titanic was built. For details go to: www.laganboatcompany.com
Belfast is an outdoor gallery, studded with 29 quirky, amusing, eye-catching sculptures. You can discover them by chance. But why not hire an audio headset (from Lagan Lookout, £2.50 all day hire), and explore the leisurely riverside ambience while tracking a flock of bronze sheep, a shoal of eels, a giant bottle top, the barrel man, countless fish, and a tower of coins — all of which celebrate the city’s industrial history and heritage.
Lovers of contemporary art should take a stroll through Ormeau Baths Gallery, known for its work by Irish and international artists. The Ulster Museum, close to the city’s relaxing, spacious Botanic Gardens, houses touring exhibitions as well as a remarkable permanent collection of Irish, British and American art. An autumn bonus for arts lovers is the Belfast Festival at Queens, the biggest international arts festival in Ireland (October 24 to November 9).
Strolling or striding the downtown beat will sharpen your appetite. Belfast’s dozens of long-established or chic new restaurants hold the key to satisfaction. Basic ingredients from the hinterland — tender beef, lamb, and pork, succulent fish and luscious seafood, are among the best in the world. Then there’s the clotted cream, fresh eggs and a platter of wholesome home-made breads: nutty wheaten, fluffy potato bread, scones and soda bread. Oh, and the helpings are on the generous side.
Renowned as still the hottest place in town, stylish dining at Cayenne, run by television celebrity chef Paul Rankin, brings together local ingredients with an international outlook. McHugh’s Bar and Restaurant, housed in the oldest building in Belfast in Queen’s Square, serves Oriental and traditional cuisine to the highest standard, while Irene & Nans and the Olio Restaurant in the trendiest quarters of downtown, are packed with atmosphere, and ideal for pre-theatre meals or after-show suppers. Serious gourmets should head for Restaurant Michael Deane, Belfast’s Michelin-starred establishment.
Now for that taxi ride with a difference. In Belfast, black taxi tours will take you in perfect safety around the city’s historical sights, to visit the Peace Line as well as the murals of the Shankill and Falls roads. Part of Belfast’s colourful culture, the two hour ride with the Original Belfast Black Taxi Tours, includes an informative commentary. Or you may choose to drive to Cave Hill and gaze at the city spread below you, spotting the landmarks that have made your visit special, and those to return to another day.
In under an hour you can visit the necklace of little port towns — Groomsport, Donaghadee, Millisle — that adorn the sandy-rocky coast of Co. Down, or drive inland to the special wildfowl reserve on Lough Neagh’s Oxford Island. Or take to the golf links on one of the world’s most fabulous courses, the famous Royal County Down.
But, however you spend a great away-day, you’ll be lured by the city’s night-life, its bistros, restaurants, clubs and theatres. So hurry back.
Factfile
The Belfast Welcome Centre tourist information office, close to the City Hall in Donegall Place, is an ideal first port of call for those who want to get the best out of their visit. For more information go to:
www.gotobelfast.com
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