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It’s not such a long way to Tipperary
By Malcolm Rogers
Malcolm Rogers takes a journey to the centre of Ireland and the fertile plains of Tipperary.
 County Tipperary is Ireland’s largest inland county, situated in one of the most verdant and fertile areas of the country.
Largely a diary farming and horse breeding county, Tipperary is the place to go if you want a quiet, reflective holiday in unspoilt, tranquil countryside. And it’s not all flat, either — The Silvermines and the Devil’s Bit Mountain provide spectacular vistas — perfect for hill walking, or for the slightly more indolent, perfect for a brisk drive in the morning. Similarly, the Knockmealdown Mountains are ideal for roaming, as are the Galtees in the south west of the county.
The River Suir also provides a beautiful area to stroll, before you even get to the fishing, while the Glen of Aherlow is one of Ireland’s world class beauty spots. And the great thing about Tipperary is, contrary to the popular song, it’s not that far away. Conveniently located in the centre of the country, you could leave London, Glasgow or Manchester first thing in the morning, and be sauntering along the shores of Lough Derg by lunchtime.
Places to visit in Tipperary
1. Bru Boru Heritage Centre, Cashel
Not only is Tipperary in the centre of the country, it has also been at the centre of Irish affairs these last couple of millennia. Nowhere is the county’s involvement in Hibernian matters better exemplified than the Rock of Cashel. Tipperary’s most dramatic feature, the 200 foot rock is topped by towers and turrets of splendid medieval architecture. The Rock of Cashel and accompanying fortifications would make their way on to any list of the top ten castles in the world. Rising dramatically out of the plains of Kildare, this rocky stronghold has kept vigil over the midlands of Ireland for over a thousand years.
One of the best places to browse and contemplate this history in the Bru Boru Heritage Centre in Cashel. The centre comprises a theatre with frequent performances and pageants, banquets in the centre’s restaurant, an informal Teach Ceoil — house of music — and for those of you interested in seeing if you have any Tipp relatives, a fully computerised genealogical service.
Tel: 00 353 62 61122
2. Cahir Castle
Cahir Castle is the most extensive Anglo-Norman fortress of its period, built originally in the 12th century by Conor O’Brien, Lord of Thomond, and added to in the 15th, 16th and 19th centuries.
This is an imposing century fortification, at one time state-of-art defensive position (it was considered impregnable), fully equipped with medieval weapons of mass destruction — cauldrons of boiling pitch poured on marauders below, jagged pieces of the Knockmealdown mountains launched at intruders, and fiery balls of straw rained down on attackers. All peaceful now, but it’s still a must-see place, just to marvel at the building of such a forbidding place. Tel 00 353 52 41011
NB If you’re in the area, you might as well pop along to the Mote of Knockgraffon, just three miles north off the road to Cashel. This was probably the former coronation place of the Kings of Munster — so keep your muddy boots off it.
3. The House of Commons
No, this isn’t what it sounds like. The House of Commons is the name given to one of the galleries in the Mitchelstown Caves — other chambers are called the House of Lords, the Cross of the Four Roads, Scotsman Cave, O’Leary’s Cave etc. Lying at the foot of the Galtees, the Mitchelstown Caves occupy a limestone trough between the Knockmealdown Mountains and the Galtees.
Now you don’t have to be a speleologist — which is what you call a cave-fancier, fact fans — and you won’t even need to be worried about suffering from claustrophobia. The caves are well lit, and adorned with the most beautiful column like stalactites (Useful mnemonic to remember stalactites and stalagmites: the mites go up and the tites come down).
Open all the year round, and it doesn’t matter if it rains — the water’s been dripping down there for the best part of a couple of a million years. Tel: 00 353 52 67246
4. Ormonde Manor House, Carrick-on-Suir
Talking of royal connections, Ormonde House has more than a couple. First of all, this beautiful 16th century house is the possible birthplace of Ann Boleyn, Better than that, as this is the seat of the Butler family, there is a direct connection to Princess Di, who not only had an army of butlers, but was a Butler herself.
Ormonde Castle is the best example of an Elizabethan Manor House in Ireland. Thomas, the 10th Earl of Ormond built it in the 1560’s.
Being the castle of the Butlers — Earls and later Dukes of Ormonde — this house / castle was at the centre of Irish history for centuries. Plots and careers, uprisings and take-overs have been planned inside the walls of this bawn.
5. Holy Cross Abbey
Near Thurles stands one of Ireland’s most picturesque Christian monuments, the spiritually uplifting Holy Cross Abbey. Here on the banks of the Suir, Donal O’Brien, King of Thomond founded a monastery in 1169 for monks of the Cistercian Order. A fine job he made of it, because most of the walls are still standing.
However, if you’ve had enough monasteries for one day thank you very much, then keep heading out west towards Lough Derg. The Tipp side of this lough, the largest of the ‘Shannon pools’, is dotted with soporifically beautiful villages, ideal for whiling away an afternoon or evening.
6. Fairymount Farm
Fairymount Farm where John and Linda Kenny breed horses, rear sheep and organically farm on a lock of acres near Ballingarry.
The Kennys’ forebears have been working the land hereabouts for the last couple of centuries, amidst ancient oak groves and pastureland lined by centuries-old hedges.
Today you can enjoy all this history and verdant beauty by staying in the Kennys’ self-catering accommodation.
Self catering cottages run from e270 per cottage per week to e490. One cottage is three star, the other is four star. The latter has 2 double rooms, two singles, and a sofa bed. All mod cons: TV etc, plus a conservatory excellent for watching the stars. There is a patio and barbecue facilities, and For the odd time that the weather turns inclement (oh, alright, it does rain here sometimes) there are turf fires and central heating.
Contact the farm:
Fairymount Farm Self-Catering,
Ballingarry, Roscrea. Co. Tipperary.
Tel: 00353 67-21139. Mob: 00 353 87-2726729.
E-mail: kennyfrm@iol.ie
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