| The High Life in Laois By Malcolm
Rogers
There’s not many places in Ireland — perhaps not even that many in
the world — which boast a fly-fishing museum. But that’s Co. Laois for you
— a place full of surprises, with curios round every corner. Malcolm Rogers
considers the lie of the land.
So put Laois in its place for us, if you could.
Well, it’s a midlands county, and better than that, it’s totally land-locked.
In fact – and here’s a supreme piece of grade A information — it’s the only
county in Ireland which doesn’t touch a county with a coastline.
So, not the place for a surfing holiday then.
Indeed no, being an agricultural sort of place, cowa-duga is heard more
regularly than the traditional surfing cry of cowabunga. But in terms of
holidays, Laois can offer just about everything else.
Go on, then, let’s hear all about it.
Well, you have angling, golfing, hill-walking, cycling, heritage tours,
equestrian trails, traditional music and dancing festivals, fine hotels,
well-appointed restaurants — plus those most precious of commodities, peace
and tranquillity.
So, could you give us the lowdown on the highspots then?
Well, let’s be clear: Laois is not the most spectacular county in Ireland.
But if you want tranquil riverside walks, uncrowded golf courses and leafy
glades then the midlands of Ireland are the destination for you. It’s the
sort of place where you can go with the flow, but you’re unlikely to be
washed away. Either by any rush of water or any other kind of rushing.
Well, I’m quite partial to a bit of peaceful hillwalking, so could
you level with me on that?
The Slieve Blooms are the place to head for. You’ve got the
likes of Arderin at 1,733 feet, Baunreaghcong at 1,677, Barna at 1,659 and
Wolftrap Mountain which is all of 1,584 feet. Big mountains,
big views.
The range is one of the oldest in Ireland and rises gently in a heathery
wave from the limestone plains that characterize the centre of Ireland.
Heather and blanket bog dominate the summit plateau, and in areas where
the rocks have sheared away, you can even see how the blanket bogs have
built up over thousands of years.
From the highest point, Arderin or ‘The Height of Ireland’ it’s possible
on clear days to see the highest points of each of Irelands four provinces.
On not so clear days you’ll be lucky to see your hand in front of your face,
but that’s all part of the charm. Forget about U2 – this is the most interesting
rock group in Ireland.
So would you be able to show me round sometime?
Ah, well, I’m a bit busy as it happens. But there’s no need for a guide
anyway. The Slieve Bloom Way is a 69 kilometre circular trek which is well
marked, and points of interest are well sign-posted. It will almost be like
having me with you.
You can join the route anywhere but most popularly at small village of
Rosenallis. According to the official guide, “the route takes the walker
past deep glens, rocky outcrops, waterfalls and lofty summits which are
said to have a strange brooding personality of their own.” The whole Way
can be done in just three days, but five days will really allow you to take
in the atmosphere. Good luck!
So do the Slieve Blooms dominate the county?
Oh, no. There’s more to Laois than the Slieve Blooms. But they are important
in that they separate the county from Offaly. Hence the old Offaly saying,
“down the country for a cow, over the mountain for a wife”. The Laois ladies,
needless to say, have long been much prized.
But I would imagine that this sort of thing would give rise to a certain
amount of rivalry?
Yes indeed, and it even spilled over onto British telly once. Apparently
after the Portugal v England match last year, an Offaly man was stopped
by a Sky reporter coming out of the match.
“Were you supporting England?” asked the reporter.
“Oh, Jayz no,” replied the Laois man.
“Well, why not? Isn’t it about time you took a more mature attitude?”
“800 years of oppression,” replied the Laois man.
“But,” enquired the Sky reporter, “is there no time when you could imagine
supporting England?”
The Laois man thought for a second or two, and replied, “Well, maybe
if they were playing Offaly.”
Very droll. But if they have this fine wit, wonderful scenery and
lovely Laois ladies, well, why don’t we hear more of the county?
You will, you will. There’s only so long you can manage to hush up a
place consisting of lofty peaks, ancient bogland and lush woodlands. Those
riverside walks I mentioned earlier are truly idyllic – and by the way the
rivers Nore and Barrow have their sources here in the Slieve Blooms. And
have we got views for you — you could visit the curio known as The Cut,
a road hewn out of solid rock by stonemasons in the 19th century, or sit
transfixed looking at the water tumbling water pouring over the Glenbarrow
Waterfall.
So what about a bit of history, just to put the place in context for
me…
OK, pay attention. Briefly, until the mid-16th century the traditional
overlords still held sway in the county — the O’ Mores, FitzPatricks, O’
Dempseys and the O’ Dunnes. However the English inside the Pale didn’t like
the cut of their jib, so the area was ‘planted’ and renamed Queen’s County.
The troublesome Irish clans were banished beyond the Pale to the south westerly
reaches of the country, and Laois effectively became completely colonised.
So not much left in the way of Celtic influences, then?
Well, of course, try as they might, the occupiers couldn’t get rid all
trace of the natives, and today there’s still plenty to see. The early Christian
sites at Killeshin and Timahoe are among the finest in the country, while
Aghaboe was home to St. Canice (chap who founded Kilkenny) in the 6th century,
and also St. Fergal who was Abbot of Aghaboe. He left Laois in 739, and
became Bishop of Salzburg. Your average Salzburger probably knows more about
Co. Laois than most people in Ireland.
Very uplifting, I’m sure, and I’m very interesting about the saints.
But, what about reasonably sized towns – shops, restaurants, that sort of
thing. It’s not for me of course, the wife, you understand…
Oh, absolutely. And have we got towns for her. Mountmellick, Portarlington
and Abbeyleix are amongst the most picturesque in the country. And, as is
the way of these things, because they are so dinky, they have increasingly
attracted arty crafty people. Thus you can buy a whole range of gear you
wouldn’t come across in your average Lidl or Ikea.
And the towns themselves are, to use that useful cliché, well worth a
visit. Portarlington is a Huguenot settlement with some distinctive 18th
century architecture, while Mountmellick originated as a Quaker settlement
in the 17th century. It became a byword for lace manufacturing — just our
luck that the Irish Quakers were into lace and not chocolates like the great
English Quaker families the Cadburys or the Bournevilles.
Abbeyleix was founded in the 12th century, and has been quietly minding
its own business ever since (aside from the odd rebellion). On the southern
side of the town is the beautiful demesne built by the Viscount de Vesci.
And the county shouldn’t be confused with…
Ah, I’m glad you brought that up. Not to be confused with the south-east
Asian country of Laos. The Royal Mail makes this mistake from time to time
as all of those with relatives in the county will know.
Oh, and one last thing — where is that fly-fishing museum?
It’s in Attanagh, and if museums are your thing you should also visit
the Donaghmore Famine Museum. Informative and very moving.
Factfile…
For information on accommodation visit the website: www.eastcoastmidlands
ireland.com
Siúlteori Cluain na Slí also walks and heritage bus tours: tel 00 353 502
48132.
Portlaoise Tourist Office, tel 00 353 502 21178.
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