| Anyone for Ennis? By Malcolm
Rogers
Malcolm Rogers gets the lowdown on one of the high spots of the West
— the town of Ennis in Co. Clare.
Popular sort of place?
Today Ennis is a thriving holiday destination, in the heart of Clare
— offering clean air, stunning scenery, and an obsession with music. It’s
a friendly town, steeped in history with narrow streets, buildings full
of character and although compact, this is one bustling place, overflowing
with bars, restaurants and shops.
History?
A Franciscan Friary was founded in the town in 1242 by Donough O’Brien,
King of Thomond — the ruins can still be seen. The town also has strong
associations with Daniel O’Connell — a monument of the Liberator dominates
the town centre, appropriately enough called O’Connell Square. The modern
history of the town dates back 400 years to when it was selected as the
administrative centre of the new county of Clare, and it’s been a thriving
market town ever since.
So has it always been popular?
Here we must repeat one of the most famous negative advertising epithets
of all time, and apologies to all from Clare, who are probably slightly
tired of hearing this. Cromwell’s surveyor described the surroundings as
a ‘savage land, yielding neither water enough to drown a man, nor tree to
hang him, nor soil enough to bury him’.
However, for those not looking to drown, hang or bury, it’s a spectacular
place.
Much to do in the town then?
As Christy Moore put it, "If it’s music ye want — sure go to Clare,"
and there’s few places better equipped to provide you with a reel, jig or
slow air. The traditional music centre Glór presents concerts, sessions,
workshops and exhibitions. Contact: glór — Irish Music Centre, Friar’s Walk,
Ennis, Co. Clare. Tel +353 65 6843103 email:
info@glor.ie.
Ennis also boasts dozens of pubs where the craic is going steady seven
nights of the week. Durty Nellie’s was first established in 1620 and, say
the locals, is still as hospitable as the day it first opened (adjacent
is the Battle of Bunratty Museum, interesting if you’re into matters military
rather than musical).
The "traditional music capital of Ireland" naturally boasts some of the
best sessions anywhere, and two of the top-line ones are Ciaran’s Bar, and
Cruises. Cruises in Abbey St goes every night of the week in the season.
It’s an organised session, and very friendly. O’Halloran’s Bar in High St
operates all year round on a Thursday night and Paddy Quinn’s has some great
music on a Saturday night.
Right across the road from Ciaran’s in Francis St. is Custy’s Music Shop
where you can pick up information on sessions and local events.
And daytime pursuits — is there much to see?
You betcha! A walk through the town will take you to the aforementioned
Franciscan Friary. Occupying a tranquil spot by the River Fergus, this is
just the sort of peaceful place to recuperate from the previous evening’s
revelries. Through the haze, pay particular attention to the McMahon Royal
Tomb, fashioned from carved slabs of stone in the 15th century. Said to
be the finest of its kind in Ireland.
Further up the town you’ll come to the De Valera Museum, a beautifully
converted Presbyterian church. Dev, as you will not need reminding, was
the area’s TD for many years. There’s a statue to the New York born politician
in the town (in Tim Smythe Park), and the De Valera Library Museum in Harmony
Row houses much memorabilia and historical artefacts.
Other points to look out for — Steele’s Rock in the River Fergus, carved
like a lion, and commemorating ‘Honest Tom’ Steele, a chum of Daniel O’Connell;
the monument to O’Donnell himself — his election to parliament is the reason
Clare is referred to as the ‘Banner County.’’
Apart from O’Donnell and de Valera, any other famous people associated
with the area?
Ennis was the birthplace of William Mulready (1786-1683), the painter;
Thomas Dermody (1775-1802) the poet; and Harriet Smithson (1800-1854), the
actress and wife of French composer Hector Berlioz. It’s also the home town
of former president Patrick Hillary, Ireland rugby captain Keith Woods,
and TV presenter Des Lynam. Unlike Dev and Dan, no statues of any of the
aforementioned exist in the town.
And could you recommend a good way of getting to know the town??
No better way than by Jane O’Brien’s walking tours in the town, For enquiries,
tel 00 353 087 6483 714.
This guided walking tour through the winding streets of medieval Ennis.
is an introduction to the legends, ghost stories, mythology and history
of the town and reveals the town’s darker side with tales of murders, hangings,
poverty, famine and riots. You’ll also get an insight into what market or
fair days would have been like in Ennis in the 19th century. Fairs in Ennis
were very communal occasions, not only for buying and selling, but also
the scene for organised faction fighting between rival gangs. Most cases
held at the courts of Ennis at the time were the ‘fair murders’ — homicides
committed on fair day.
The tour also explores the mythology and legends of the town from Banshees
to Biddy Early. She was the infamous magical Lady of Clare, who it was said
derived her supernatural powers from a dark blue bottle. For her pains,
she was tried for witchcraft in Ennis in 1865.
The tour finishes in Fawls pub (the Railway Bar) at the end of O’Connell
St. Fawls is a well known, traditional style pub which retains the old fittings
complete with snug to the front — the perfect venue to end the tour. Tours
take place every day (except Tuesday) from May till October, and are run
daily at 11am and 7pm. Group bookings are available all year. Meeting point
is Ennis Tourist Office, Arthur’s Row. Tickets are available at the start
of the tours or can be booked in advance by contacting Jane at: 087 648
3714 or by email to
info@enniswalkingtours.com
Cost of the tour is e8 per person, with children accompanied by adults are
free.
And the countryside — would that be worth visiting?
Certainly. Although east Clare can’t quite boast the grandeur of the
Cliffs of Moher or the fascinating strangeness of the Burren, the land around
Ennis is quintessentially Irish — tightly walled meadows full of wild flowers,
gently undulating pathways, and just beyond the town, a landscape fissured
with rivers and loughs. A pastoral scene personified.
Recommended accommodation?
Ennis is generously equipped for overnight stays. The tourist office,
located at Arthur’s Row, off the Square in the Centre of Ennis, is open
all year round and provides advice, maps, guides and more … 00 353 65 28366
can steer you into town and lodgings which range from the up-market Old
Ground Hotel(065 28127) to a wide selection of bed and breakfasts.
Factfile…
Where in the world?
Ennis, Co. Clare.
Derivation of name?
From Inis - an islet or river meadow.
Location?
In the middle of the county, straddling the River Fergus.
Accessibility?
145 miles or so from Dublin, just 16 miles up the road from Shannon Airport.
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