| In Dublin’s Fair County By Malcolm
Rogers
Malcolm Rogers examines the wealth of beauty and historical interest
awaiting the traveller on the outskirts of the metropolis.
Even the most resolute city sophisticate occasionally wants a day out
in the country.
In the big cities of Britain that can cause a problem — or at least mean
a journey which will take you all day to accomplish. However in Dublin you’re
spoilt for choice as far as day trips are concerned — and even with Dublin’s
ever increasing traffic, you can be out of the city within 30 minutes. The
capital is necklaced with some terrific towns, villages, parks, monasteries
and castles. Everything you could need for a splendid day out or extended
stay.

Dún Laoghaire was for many years part of every Irish exile’s lexicon.
It meant the boat home — in the early days it was the mail train from London,
in more recent times it’s been the car ferry. Now, with the advent of budget
airlines, Dún Laoghaire has to an extent spiritually moved to Dublin Airport.
Dún Laoghaire is still a port — the container lorries still depart from
here — but it boasts enough diversions to make a very promising day trip
or weekender.
The ancient name of this resort-cum-port testifies to the existence of
a fort here, said to have been the digs of Laoghaire, the head honcho when
St. Patrick first arrived. Laoghaire was one of his first converts.
Dún Laoghaire was originally built to house the great British fleet.
With its two mile long granite piers, it was the largest artificial harbour
in the world. You can still take an invigorating walk along the East Pier
— in some ways it would still remind you of holiday resorts of 50 years
ago, with a lifeboat memorial, a bandstand, several yacht clubs, and of
course fish and chip shops.
Although it probably wouldn’t occur to you to spend a weekend in Dún
Laoghaire, in actual fact it is a very attractive destination. You can be
in the centre of Dublin by DART in next to no time, accommodation is cheaper
than in the city, and there is a palpable air of the old-fashioned sea resort
about the place. In fact, you could go as far as saying that by no means
should Dún Laoghaire be regarded as a last resort.

Just down the coast from Dún Laoghaire is the quiet resort of Sandycove,
famous for its connection with Sir Roger Casement, although there is another
famous name which somewhat eclipses the gun-running patriot and knight.
A visit to the Martello tower at Sandycove, the one time home of James Joyce,
is an essential pilgrimage for any student or lover of Irish literature.
Immortalised in Ulysses, it is today a museum dedicated to the great man’s
memory.
The Martello tower itself is one of 21 which dot the Irish coast, originally
built as a bulwark against French invasion in 1804-06.
Having taken your fill of Buck Mulligan, Leopold Bloom et al, head for
the beach. The strand at Sandycove, housing the famous Forty Foot Pool,
can range from bracing to balmy. OK, it does rain the odd time, but remember,
this is just about one of the driest areas in Ireland. The Forty Foot Pool
(the name refers to a fishing hole off the coast) was long reserved for
male nude swimming; nowadays both sexes can use it, but you have to wear
your togs.
The harbour walls at Dún Laoghaire, first begun in 1817, were constructed
from stone quarried from Dalkey Hill. But today Dalkey has the air of a
genteel village, where anything as rough hewn as quarrying would seem inappropriate.
About a half a dozen miles or so south of Dublin city, it has been immortalised
in literature by the likes of James Joyce, George Bernard Shaw and Myles
na gCopaleen. Its connection with the famous continues to this day with
writers Hugh Leonard and Maeve Binchy gracing its elegant boulevards, as
well as a brace of rock stars such as U2 and broadcaster Pat Kenny.
One of Dalkey’s many castles is now home to a Heritage Centre — as good
a place as any to unravel the area’s long convoluted history which stretches
back to 4500 BC when the first settlers eked out an existence on Dalkey
Island.
The town of Dalkey itself is a bit more modern than the island, stretching
back only 3,500 years. A fascinating exhibition traces the Early Christian,
Medieval and Victorian history of the town — this is what heritage centres
should be all about. No gimmicks, just a well laid out summary of the town’s
affairs down through the centuries using exhibits, models and text.
The massive Archbold’s Castle is a good starting off point to explore
the narrow lanes and leafy byways of this historic, handsome town.

Howth, with its ancient connections with the legend of Diarmuid and Grainne,
and its use as a film set for Father Brown (Howth and Hollywood were the
two locations), is a timeless Irish harbour town.
Howth or ‘Hoved’ is a Norse name, Norse code if you like, for ‘the Head’
— the rocky promontory guarding the harbour. Originally called Beann Éadar,
or Eadar’s Peak, the outcrop is connected with the mainland by a low spit
of land which is simply a gravel beach of comparatively recent natural formation.
Howth Head, which is clearly visible when you come into land at Dublin
Airport, is formed from the oldest rocks in Ireland. The highest point is
Slievemartin or Hill of Howth, 560 feet — for further lyrical information
read the beautiful ‘Cromlech of Howth’ by Samuel Ferguson.
If the sun shines across the marina lighting up the Howth Head, then
you could be in Monte Carlo. Seriously, it’s that beautiful. On the other
hand the presence of a Martello Tower and the ruins of a monastery on the
nearby island of Ireland’s Eye quickly puts you in your place.
To make the most of the bracing seaside resort atmosphere of Howth, stroll
along the footpath which runs the whole way round the coast, giving great
views of the impressive cliffs and across the Irish Sea towards Wales.
For refreshment you can pop into the Abbey Tavern where the Dubliners
used to play in their formative years. You might even see Barney McKenna
tending his fishing boat in the harbour, or Gay Byrne, another resident,
looking on.
To the north of Howth, Malahide boasts castle, demesne and wonderful
views of the sea. The old town is made up of pretty houses on streets which
slope gently down to the sea. The castle is a 12th century tower house which
has been tinkered with for the last 800 years. Like all good Irish castles,
Malahide boasts a particularly virulent, and pernickety, ghost called Puck.
The low door at the corner of the Great Hall is known as ‘Puck’s Door’ after
an unfortunate servant who fell asleep on duty. Regrettably he chose a night
when invaders attacked, and the hapless Puck hanged himself in shame. It’s
said that the poor man’s ghost now appears whenever changes are made to
the castle which Puck doesn’t like.
Nearby Malahide Castle is the Fry Model Railway, installed in the Corn
Store. This is the nation’s largest model railway layout, and has exhaustive
examples from Ireland’s diverse transport system — CIE’s trains and buses,
the DART system, the new LUAS system, Iarnród Éireann — as well as canal
barges and ferry services.
If you’re more into flowers than boys’ toys, head for the Talbot Botanic
Gardens. The Talbots were the big Anglo-Irish family round here, and they
had money to splash out. So that’s what they did with the garden — the conservatory,
walled enclosure and orchard are home to some 5,000 species from Australia,
New Zealand and Chile.
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