| Belfast — Battered but Beautiful
By Malcolm Rogers
Malcolm Rogers takes a trip North to preview the forthcoming arts
festival and sample some of the restaurants.
It’s ironic, really, that if you want to get a glimpse of what old Ireland
was like before the Celtic Tiger sunk its claws in to the fabric of Irish
society, you have to head North. It’s true — in order to observe a quintessentially
Irish way of life, largely disappeared now, you have to go to that part
of Ireland which is British.
Because, you see, due to its relative isolation these last 35 years or
so of the Bother, the North of Ireland has changed less than say, Kerry
or west Cork.
Of course, I hear you say, you’ll have to dodge the blast bombs and bullets
in order to sample that old Ireland, unsullied by modernism. And right enough
Belfast has a had a bit of a bad press lately, with the sound of rioting
echoing round the streets yet again. The city appears to have regained its
former name of Drawfast.
Some are calling the latest skirmishes the last battle in the long occupation
of Ireland, and the prediction that the ultimate struggle would be between
the forces of the Crown and the loyalists appears to be coming true.
But to dwell on that situation is to ignore the fact that you’re still
far less likely to be involved in any crime in Belfast than most other parts
of Europe, and that the people are astonishingly friendly. Indeed, many
an outsider has posed the question — how can people who are so friendly
to strangers be so murderous to each other? Well, the answer is they’re
not, and should you choose to holiday in Belfast you can guarantee yourself
a craic-laden, brilliant time.
Belfast has a dramatic setting on the shores of Belfast Lough, with Cave
Hill, a huge volcanic outcrop, acting as an ever present reminder that countryside
and open spaces are close by. Few cities are so full of greenery and open
space, or so accessible to beaches, meadows or woodland.
This strange, exciting place has produced characters as diverse as C.S.
Lewis (of Narnia fame), footballer George Best, musicians Van Morrison and
James Galway, actor Kenneth Branagh and of course not forgetting Irish Post
Award winning comedian Frank Carson.
Belfast is also home to one of the longest running arts festivals in
these islands. Now in its 43rd year, the Belfast Festival at Queen’s runs
from October 21 to November 6, and this year it looks like being a cracker,
as our friend Frank would say.
Traditional music is, of course, a staple diet of proceedings, something
which has taken me to the festival these 30 years or so. This year Galician
piper Carlos Nunez brings his Celtic and Spanish crossover music to the
city, where he will be backed by current European Pipe Band champions the
Field Marshall Montgomery Band. Now don’t be put off by the militaristic
sound of that outfit — this is one band which can really rock.
Irish traditional music is represented in the shape of Dervish, as well
as Martin Hayes (just about the top of the range these days in Irish fiddling)
accompanied by redoubtable guitarist Dennis Cahill.
From the other side of the Irish Sea comes Blue Murder, including the
gargantuan talents of Norma Waterson, Martin Carthy and Eliza Carthy.
Needless to say it’s not all flings and fleadhs. The festival opens on
Friday, October 1 with a spectacular free street procession called Insectes
by Sarruga, a performance group from Spain. Now, in a city where processions
can cause severe grievance, one hesitates to say that this one should go
off without a hitch, but I think we can safely assume that the Parades Commission
won’t re-route this one. Unless of course some loyalist cockroaches object
— only joking.
The opening concert features Marianne Faithfull (now a resident of Ireland)
along with her band in concert with the Ulster Orchestra and the Renaissance
singers.
Other concerts very worthy of note include high energy punk-jazz outfit
Acoustic Ladyland (October 29), and composer Michael Nyman on October 22.
Comedians include Harry Hill — who’ll be making his first visit to Belfast
— deadpan genius Rich Hall and trolley dolly Pam Ann.
Of course, should you get a bit peckish in between concerts, Belfast
now has a restaurant scene to rival anything in these islands. The Golden
Mile — roughly from the City Hall up to Queen’s University — has everything
from contemporary Irish cuisine to Indian vegetarian fusion and all stops
in between.
Deane’s (Tel: 028 9033 1134) at 38-40 Howard Street would be typical
of the new breed of eateries. Their set menu for nine courses (yes, nine
courses) begins at £62 — and the meal is suitably elaborate. You’ll also
dine in some style — ornate Hollywood staircase, balloon glasses and generally
brassy surroundings.
Downstairs in the Brasserie things are much simpler — and cheaper. The
style of the food would be described as ‘modern, contemporary’ — in other
words, if you like your vegetables cooked to a pulp, you won’t find much
to your liking here.
At the other end of the spectrum is the Kitchen Bar, 16-18 Victoria Square
(Tel: 028 9032 4901). You’ll be ignoring your cardiologist’s advice if you
dine here.
This splendid eatery, run by Pat Catney and other members of the Catney
clan, is one of the finest dining places of its kind in the world. Part
American diner, part Spanish tapas bar, part Irish pub, the presence of
three kinds of homemade bread — wheaten, soda and potato farls — anchors
it unmistakably in Norn Iron. Aside from the afore-mentioned breads, specialities
include Paddy’s pizza — a slab of soda bread with a slice of boiled gammon,
Coleraine cheddar and tomatoes topped with eggs. Also try the Irish stew
with beef — served with towering escarpments of mashed potatoes. Needless
to say, excellent stouts can be had to accompany the meal.
Very cheap: Paddy’s Pizza, £5.50. The Bap Out Of Hell (another dish not
to tell your doctor about) is a quid dearer.
A restaurant critic once reminisced about a trip he made to Belfast some
years ago. He was much taken by a sign in a pub which said “Pint, pie and
a kind word — £1.00.” The critic duly ordered the ‘special’ from a friendly
barman, was served an immaculate pint of stout and a serviceable enough
looking pie, but the kindly word wasn’t forthcoming. “Hey! What about the
friendly advice?” he called. The barman came back, leaned over the bar,
and conspiratorially whispered to the restaurant critic: “If I were ye,
I wouldn’t bother eatin’ the meat pie.”
An unlikely scenario in Belfast these days — although the friendly barmen
are still here.
Belfast Facts…
The handsome Belfast City Hall, which commemorates events from the Titanic
to the Great War, will itself be celebrating its centenary next year.
William Drennan, the man who first coined the phrase The Emerald Isle,
is buried in Clifton Street Cemetery. The phrase was originally used in
his poem Erin, published in 1800: “Nor one feeling of vengeance presume
to defile / The Curse of the men from the Emerald Isle.”
The Linen Hall Library, hard by the City Hall, was established in 1788
‘to improve the mind and excite a spirit of general inquiry’, remains one
of the most interesting libraries in Europe. Of particular interest are
copies of reputedly the oldest daily newspaper in the world still published
— the Belfast Newsletter, first published in 1737.
The Entries are a cluster of narrow alleyways or closes running off High
Street and Ann Street, Belfast's oldest quarter. Once home to a thriving
commercial and residential centres, today it's given over to the gentler
art of conviviality and cuisine in its numerous cafes and pubs.
At The Odyssey’s W5 “interactive and discovery centre” you can interact
with all sorts of weird and wonderful exhibits. Experience the force of
lift and drag in a wind tunnel, see how racing cars are made or witness
a fire tornado. Plus much more wizardry. Family orientated, W5 has five
different zones called Wow, Start, Go, See and Do.
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