A Tipp top idea
By Malcolm Rogers
Malcolm Rogers explores a new kind of holiday in the pastoral beauty of South Tipperary.
It has some 80 different parts, including a frog, a bridge, a table, a belly and a scroll, and is currently celebrating its 500th year in showbusiness. It’s probably one of the few things still used by top professionals which was designed in the 16th century and remains largely unchanged since then.
We are, of course, talking about the violin, called more usually the fiddle in Irish circles.
Should you learn to play the violin, the most expressive of all instruments, the joy it will bring over the years is beyond price. As Robbie Burns so succinctly put it:
“If I should sell my fiddle The world would think I was mad For many a rantin’ day Me fiddle and I hae had.”
The ‘modern’ violin was developed by a handful of skilled instrument makers in a small northern Italian city called Cremona, the home of Amati, Guarneri and of course Stradivarius.
Grazie molto, signori (Fair play to yiz, lads).
And although the violin has had an enormous impact on Irish traditional music, you don’t need to travel to Italy to brush up on your violin skills.
In the depths of tranquil, pastoral Tipperary, on the banks of the Suir River, an absorbing musical holiday concept has taken shape. In the almost impossibly picturesque village of Loughmore (a match for Lombardy any day of the week) lies the Fiddlers’ Retreat. And it does exactly what it says on the label — it’s a cultural residential school providing instruction in Irish traditional music for violinists of all styles and standards.
Professional and non-professional players are equally welcome. You might be an orchestral player who wants to trade in Swan Lake for the Geese in the Bog, to go from symphony to seisún in one leap.
On the other hand you might be a beginner trying to get a real handle on Irish music. Irish traditional music is rich in ornamentation — triplets, rolls, double stops, etc., all help to ‘humour’ the tune, and it’s a richly rewarding lifetime’s work trying to unravel all the secrets. But whether you’re an amateur violinist, or specialise in classical, jazz or country you’ll be steered in the right direction
The brains behind the idea is fiddle player Theresa Bourke, born and reared in Tipperary. But this is a lady who has seen the world (or Greater Tipperary as Tipp people like to think of it) and has plied her trade from Brú na Bóinne to Brunei.
Theresa has a had an eventful life — her latest chapter was appearing and playing the fiddle music in Michael Flatley’s Lord of the Dance. But after three universities, three internationally renowned shows and 40 countries she’s decided it’s time to return to her first love — spreading the gospel of Irish traditional music.
“I’ve been playing since I was six,” explains Theresa. “I was always interested in music — when my brother came home from school I’d try to play the tunes he’d learnt on the tin whistle. So then I went to a local music teacher, Kathleen Nesbitt, an absolutely terrific teacher and realised music was my life.”
In later years she has studied at three universities, but successfully avoided calling herself “The Three Degrees”. By the time she had finished college she was a highly qualified music teacher, and although she did some teaching, eventually opted to embark on three internationally renowned shows — Bru Boru, Spirit of Ireland and Michael Flatley’s Lord of the Dance.
“Touring with a show is a fantastic experience,” says Theresa, “but it can be a hectic way of life. I wore out six passports, visiting every continent in the world.”
After a spell living in London, Theresa decided to return to Tipperary.
“I suppose I’ve always had this vision in my mind — to establish a Fiddlers’ Retreat. It comes about through a love of all things Irish — and I want to enable violinists to experience an authentic and special holiday in Ireland . Somewhere they can learn to play Irish music and experience Irish culture at its best.”
The guests stay in Theresa’s home in the almost impossibly picturesque village of Loughmore, just opposite the chapel and a mile up the road from the brooding presence of Loughmore Castle on the banks of the Suir River.
“The guests, visitors, students — call them what you will — sit around my table enjoy home cooked food — that’s another love of mine! Cooking is another thing I missed when we were touring. In Lord of the Dance three chefs toured with us, so there was never much call for my expertise!”
Although it’s worth going anywhere for fiddling and food, there’s yet another reason for journeying to Loughmore. Set in the heart of the Golden Vale, the village is surrounded by The Comeragh and Galtee Mountains and the Glen of Aherlow.
Grade A attractions lie nearby — the Rock of Cashel is less than half an hour’s drive away, the Silvermine Mountains about 20 minutes, and the charming old town of Roscrea — with its spectacular abbey and round tower — is likewise some 20 minutes away.
Theresa, whose family history is part of the county, conducts students and visitors round these sights, all part of the deal.
And she will also, very probably, invite you to the Bourke family pub, De Burca’s in Thurles. Situated on the aptly named Cathedral Street, De Burca’s must reside in one of the most religious streets in the country.
The pub is directly opposite St. Mary’s Cathedral — which may have a familiar look to it if you’re Italian and happen to be reading this on the internet. The Cathedral, Giovanni, is modelled on Pisa Cathedral. The Archbishop of Cashel and Emly lives next door, St. Patrick’s Seminary is across the way, and the Palatine College is just down the road.
And a short distance away in Thurles stands the cathedral to that other religion — the GAA. Hayes Hotel, where the organisation was founded in 1874, still proudly proclaims its significance — opposite a statue of the ever-watchful Archbishop Croke, of Croke Park fame.
Theresa Bourke is offering holidays in a specialised niche of the market. But if you happen to inhabit that niche, and can play the violin, then you’re in for a real treat in Tipperary. Here’s a holiday where you can brush up your playing skills, experience an Irish welcome in a village which has changed little in the last half-dozen decades and enjoy the rural tranquility of the Golden Vale.
The fiddle, throughout the Celtic world, occupies a hallowed position, often being regarded as an enchanted instrument. According to legend the music already exists inside the body of the fiddle and it is the craft of the fiddler to tease the music out. And you’d have to say, watching Theresa play a captivating slow air or the like in the quiet stillness of a Tipperary evening, there does seem to be more than a degree of truth in the legend.
That she is willing to share that craft with other musicians is extremely good news — it is, in fact, a golden opportunity in the Golden Vale.
Fiddlers’ Retreat details… A six night stay at the Fiddlers’ Retreat costs €900 (£610).
This consists of 15 hours tuition over five days. Each violinist will be taught how to play the various tune types found in Irish music: reels, jigs, hornpipes, polkas and slow airs.
The use of ornamentation and variation will also be explored, and bowing techniques, phrasing and expression will be demonstrated. There will be opportunities to join other musicians in an Irish music session. All meals and site seeing tours are included in the price.
Partners of students are welcome as well — a discount will be negotiated.
Contact:
Ms. Theresa Bourke,
De Burca,
Cathedral Street,
Thurles,
Co. Tipperary.
Tel: +353 504 23335, + 353 504 31466,
+353 868099661 (mobile).
Email: info@fiddlersretreat.com or visit the website: www.fiddlersretreat.com. |