|
The rugged beauty of West Cork
 Co.
Cork is best appreciated from its beaches, many remote enough for any
aspiring Robinson Crusoe. And nowhere better to find them than down the
coast in west Cork.
This is a gentle introduction to Ireland. The landscape is mild, not wild,
rolling hills clumpy trees, subtle greens, like a soft focus Kerrygold
advert. True, the hedgerows in the lanes tower 10 feet high with great
canyons of fuchsia and honeysuckle, and the Atlantic coastline is never
less than impressive. But it’s a soft, enchanting landscape, every
headland dotted with scenic harbours and fishing villages done out in
pastel shades, secluded beaches and dozens of sparsely populated islands.
Clonakilty, despite its reputation for that state-of-the-art offal which
is known as Clonakilty pudding is renowned for some of the best sea food
restaurants in Ireland, and the finest music pubs.
Craic and cuisine aside, Clonakilty is famous for being the birthplace
of Michael Collins. But then history lurks round every corner here, and
the recently excavated Lisnagun ring fort is a marvel to behold. Entirely
reconstructed on its original site, this is just about the best way to
get a grasp of how our early forebears lived.
Of course many people come to Cork for the beaches, and the nearest one
is Inchydoney, a couple of miles outside the town. The island of Inchydoney
has been joined to the rest of Cork by two causeways since the mid-19th
century, and it’s here you’ll find Inchydoney Lodge and Spa.
The hotel itself is an irresistible mix of old stone buildings and Georgian
houses (00 353 20-7590 1777)
Skibbereen is the de facto capital of west Cork, the hub from which the
many sparkling jewels of the area can be reached. On arriving in this
lively town you could do worse than sign up for a Skibbereen Historical
Walks place to learn a bit more about your surroundings. Skibbereen, a
town with a rich and diverse heritage, has had more than its fair share
of hardship. The Famine bit very deep here, witness the song:
“Your mother too, God rest her soul, she fell on snowy ground
She could not raise her body, seeing desolation around She never rose
but slipped away from life to mortal dream And found a quiet grave my
boy in dear old Skibbereen.”
Castletownbere is the Beara Peninsula’s main town, the largest whitefish
port in Ireland. As if that isn’t boast enough, Berehaven is, somewhat
surprisingly, the second largest natural harbour in the world, a safe
anchorage for yachts, and ideal for watersports.
Castletownbere is the ideal base for exploring the Caha Mountains the
sierra of the Beara. Hungry Hill the highest of the Cahas has a 200 foot
waterfall flowing down its seaward side. Spectacular in the extreme.
Nestling between the Caha Mountains and Bantry Bay, Glengarriff is —
to employ that very useful cliché — a truly unique place.
It seems to have an extraordinarily clement climate, an oasis in fact,
completely at odds with somewhere perched precariously above the very
edge of Europe. Magnificent views of the Caha Mountains can be seen from
the numerous viewpoints along the roads which lead out of the glen and
hug the coastline before winding along the steep sided valleys. A must
for vertigo fans.
Any visit to Glengarriff has to include Garnish Island the most outstanding
garden island just about anywhere, with its internationally famous collection
of plants and world-renowned Italian Gardens.
As well as abundant natural beauty and an inherent “old world charm,
Glengarriff makes an ideal centre for exploring further afield. The wild
scenery of the Beara Peninsula starts here, whilst the peace and beauty
of the Lakes of Inchigeela, Gougane Barra and the Borlin Valley are only
a short drive away.
Mizen Head is the most southerly part of the mainland of Ireland, and
is basically where Europe comes to an abrupt end. Steep cliffs mark the
westerly limit of Munster rule and EU writ, crags which are regularly
battered by belligerent storms. The (very necessary) lighthouse can be
reached by a suspension bridge across a rocky chasm. Best not to look
down, really.
But it’s not all angry seas nearby Barley Cove attracts bathers
and swimmers on a surprisingly regular basis.
You’ll see plenty of seals in the Atlantic waters round Cape Clear
Island, only three miles from “Ireland’s teardrop” Fastnet
Rock. The Cape, the southerly-most tip of Ireland, is a popular service
station not only for seals, but for migrating birds, whales, sharks, and
dolphins.
|
