Magic of Munster
The province of Munster has something for everyone as MALCOLM ROGERS
discovered. Although you’ll need more than a weekend away to sample
all its charms.
 By MALCOLM
ROGERS
WHEN people talk about the Six Counties, they’re usually referring
to the North of Ireland. However, the only true Six Counties making up
a province in Ireland are those which constitute Munster: Clare, Cork,
Kerry, Limerick, Tipperary and Waterford.
It’s a collection of counties full of names that are famous well
beyond the bounds of Ireland, never mind Munster. Take Tipperary —
this is probably the best known county anywhere in the world due to the
song.
People everywhere sing “It’s a long way to Tipperary. . .”
oblivious that it has anything to do with Ireland, and totally unaware
that in Ireland in days gone by Tipperary was a by-word for rebellion
and sedition under British rule. (Most of the landlords killed in Ireland
met their fate in Co. Tipperary.)
On a somewhat more transparent — not to mention lighter —
note, Munster is home to one of Ireland’s best known manufactured
non-liquid products, Waterford Crystal. Again, you’ll find proud
owners of this cut glass crystal unable to place Waterford in the right
European country, never mind the correct province. They will be equally
unaware that Waterford is Ireland’s oldest city, founded in 853.
Same thing applies to ‘limerick’, and the ‘gift of the
blarney’. Cork City abounds with road signs pointing the way to
‘Limerick, Blarney’, probably the only road signs in the world
containing two literary lessons.
As well as having contributed to the English language, Munster also boasts
some of Ireland’s most famous sights. The Skelligs are one of Ireland’s
three World Heritage Sites, richly deserving their international standing,
as the islands constitute one of the most important Christian sites outside
the Middle East.
Scarcely less impressive are the Burren, the Cliffs of Moher, the Ring
of Kerry, Blarney Castle, and the Rock of Cashel. The Lakes of Killarney,
the peaks of Macgillycuddy Reeks, the sunny south-east’s beaches,
and Cork’s maritime history are all part of a region which has been
welcoming visitors for more than 250 years.
The mighty Shannon drains the countryside hereabouts, finally making
its exit to the Atlantic beyond Limerick — so if it’s a cruising
holiday you want, you could hardly do better.
Drivers are equally well catered for. A tour from Lismore in Co. Waterford
climbs the flanks of the Knockmealdown Mountains to the Gap, or Vee, soon
arriving at a wonderfully scenic panorama encompassing the velvety fields
of the fertile Golden Vale.
Another world famous tour guaranteed to put the pleasure back into motoring
for you winds from Glengarriff to Killarney. The route snakes from the
Cork side of the Beara Peninsula across the Caha Mountains through rugged
scenery to the Kerry coast.
Lying east of Co. Clare is Munster’s only landlocked county, Tipperary.
The largest, and some say the greenest, inland county, Tipp’s large
fertile plain covers the central area, and is ringed by rugged mountains.
Deep in the soft curves of the Golden Vale the Rock of Cashel thrusts
some 300 feet into the Tipperary air, proclaiming its importance since
pre-Christian times.
Today Munster’s vibrant culture, historic backdrop and breathtaking
scenery add up to an unbeatable hat-trick for visitors.
The history and mystery of Munster
The ancient province of Munster was originally called Cúige Mumham,
probably after the goddess Mumha. Her heavenly duties remain unclear,
but she may well have been in charge of providing celestial scenery, because
the area is blessed in this department to a degree which is really not
fair. Ancient megalithic monuments and dolmens — some as old as
5,000 years — abound in the area; truly a holiday here is played
out against a backdrop of vanished civilisations.
Plenty of evidence of later ages can be found as well — Anglo-Norman
forts and castles dot the countryside, as well as the abbeys and monasteries
of Munster’s missionary monks.
If you want to sample what life might (nearly) have been like you can
visit Bunratty Folk Park and later join in the banquet at Bunratty Castle.
This is much better than you might imagine — it actually is a terrific
night out with copious quantities of drink, food which isn’t too
bad, and music which is absolutely excellent.
You might even find yourself singing along with When Irish Eyes Are Smiling
at the end of the night — although that isn’t compulsory.
But you’ll certainly find yourself swept along by the atmosphere
and some first class traditional music.
For more upmarket food, Cork boasts some of the smartest restaurants around
— the likes of The Customs House in Baltimore or Longueville House
in Mallow service the European jet set who discovered the magic of this
area a long time ago.
If you belong more to the Sopwith Camel bi-plane set — like myself
— you still have plenty of choice. Kinsale, Kenmare and Waterford
all boast tremendous restaurants and pubs, and inland Tipperary can be
a gourmet’s paradise.
Despite being in the most visited part of the country, you can still expect
lots of old-fashioned friendship and hospitality, nowhere more so than
at the wide range of accommodation available — from luxury castles
to cosy B&Bs.
Munster’s sudden heights and long valleys interspersed with tiny
cameos of green meadows are dotted with the now mellow landmarks from
every period in Irish history.
The problem, really, is trying to decide where to go. Any one of its
counties provides enough spectacular scenery, restaurants, hotels, and
sports from angling to hill walking to justify spending a fortnight, never
mind a weekend break.
The province has everything you could want on a holiday. And, okay,
even if it rains the odd time, some of the finest pubs in Ireland (and
hence the world) are here in this corner of the south west to help you
while away the time. And remember, even asking directions in Munster can
turn into a social occasion, so you may imagine what the pubs are like.
 Head
for the hills
MUNSTER’S horizons always seem close by, criss-crossed as it is
by countless hills and mountains, with most areas dominated by nearby
peaks. Inland are the Slieve Felims, the Galtees and the Silvermines.
Waterford is separated from Tipperary by the Knockmealdown and Comeragh
ranges — both of which provide reasonably stern tests for even the
committed hiker, but numerous medium graded walks for the slightly less
athletic.
Cork, Ireland’s biggest county, is crossed by ranges of heights
including the Ballyhoura Hills, while the roof of the province is reached
on the wild peninsulas of the south west which poke into the Atlantic
Ocean.
Here the Slieve Mish Mountains eventually plunge into the sea, with Mount
Brandon on the Dingle Peninsula leading the way. The towering MacGillycuddy
Reeks culminate in Carrauntoohil — the name is believed to have
derived from the Irish for “an inverted reaping hook” —
while the Beara Peninsula is cracked and corrugated by the wild Slieve
Miskish and Caha ranges.
Munster offers wonderful opportunities for the committed rock climber,
ardent hill walker, or casual rambler. In Tipperary you won’t need
crampons, traverse-ropes or high altitude pills.
Near the Shannon flats for instance lies the 300ft high Knockshigowna,
reputed to be the abode of Munster’s fairies — if a leprechaun
can scale this peak, then so can you.
Also in Tipperary stands the slightly sterner climb of Slievenamon. Similarly
connected with Irish legend, the rounded mountain presents a steady uphill
walk, with no mountaineering skill required.
A reasonable degree of fitness should see you to the top in less than
a couple of hours, and your reward will be incomparable views across the
valleys below and on to the plains of Tipperary. Plus a chance to break
into song:
“By night and by day, I ever ever pray, while lonely this life
goes on To see our flag unfurled, and my true love to enfold, in a valley
near Slievenamon.”
Singing over, and it’s down to Limerick, where Ardpatrick boasts a superlative
which, while not in the same class as Carrauntoohil, is nonetheless quite
impressive: It glories in the title of highest grass-covered hill in Ireland.
At the summit are the remains of an old round tower with a holy well
close at hand. Ardpatrick is also the site of a former Celtic monastery
possibly founded by St Patrick himself, hence the name — Ard Pádraig,
St Patrick’s Height.
At the other end of the scale are the reeks of Macgillycuddy, many over
3,000 feet, which need a degree of fitness, some experience and decent
equipment.
Carrauntoohil, the highest mountain in the range and on the whole island,
is a favourite with walkers and climbers.
To get there from Killarney drive towards Beauford/Gap of Dunloe following
the Ring of Kerry to the Hag’s Glen. At a small conjunction you’ll
see Kissane’s Shop and a telephone box. Take the road on the left,
at the end of which is a small farmyard with a car park. Follow the small
track that leads to the Gaddagh River, cross this and then continue up
the Hag’s Glen. Then it’s onwards and upwards to the summit!
And don’t forget — you don’t conquer Carauntuoohil.
Carauntoohil allows you to climb it.
The Macgillycuddy Reeks aren’t high by international standards,
with severe wintry conditions rare due to the winds from the Atlantic.
But the mountain shouldn’t be underestimated as that very same Atlantic
can usher in difficult conditions in the way of rain, wind and mist.
For a walk on the road less taken, try the summits and ridges of Purple
Mountain, Tomie’s Mountain and Shehy Mhór, which form a lofty
three-pointed route beyond the Gap of Dunloe. It’s a challenging
enough route covering some 13 miles, so this is definitely for the more
experienced and fit.
The route starts at Kate Kearney’s Cottage, traverses the beautiful
Gap of Dunloe, and ascends some 3,117 feet to the summit of Purple Mountain.
A ridge walk then takes you on to Tomie’s Mountain, then a southward
scramble on to Shehy Mhór, and finally through Tomie’s Wood.
This is one of Europe’s ancient pine forests, with herds of Ireland’s
oldest red deer roaming free.
The map you want for both Carrauntoohil and the Purple Mountain is Ordnance
Survey Sheet 78 of the 1:50K Discovery Series.
Soaking up the miles in Killarney
Killarney is the home of Irish tourism — they’ve been entertaining
visitors here for the thick end of 250 years. And while the town itself
can sometimes score high on the paddywhackeray and leprechaun scale, despite
its commerciality there’s no denying it is surrounded by the most
glorious scenery.
For a drive that will get you into the very heartland of Munster wilderness,
load up the jalopy with a picnic and head out the Cork road on the beginning
of an 86-mile journey which will take you past the mountain peaks of three
ranges, through forest and woodland, and into the prime viewing sites
of Killarney’s lakes and fells.
The route
Heading out of Killarney, after some two miles take the N72 in the direction
of the signpost marked ‘Mallow, Rathmore’. The Mangerton Mountains
will be on your right, and in just over five miles you’ll pass through
Barraduff. From here proceed towards Rathmore from where you take the
R582 to Millstreet.
At the memorial in Millstreet turn right and immediately bear right on
to the Cork, Macroom Road. In four miles turn sharp right on to the road
signposted Ballyvourney. Pass through the town and in a mile-and-a-half
you’ll reach Ballymakeery. Turn right on to a road sign-posted ‘Ballingeary,
Renaniree’, from whence you enter the beautiful Douglas Valley.
After almost three miles turn left at the Renaniree signpost, and head
into rocky countryside. After about a mile, at the next T-junction turn
right. At Renaniree do a further right, and gradually ascend for some
three miles to a summit of about 1,000 feet, with views of Cork and Kerry
surrounding you.
Turn right at the sign-post for ‘Kilgarvan, Kenmare’ and follow
the mountainside up to a 1,147ft summit. This is followed by a long winding
descent, and back up to a 1,065ft pass. You’re now in the Roughty
Valley. Go across Inchee Bridge and drive alongside the river for some
two miles to Morley’s Bridge. Turn right across the bridge, then
left on to the Kilgarvan Road. Follow the sign posts to Kenmare through
the village.
Continue down the Roughty Valley to reach Kenmare. You now drive along
the Finnihy River valley, climbing up through attractive, wooded, low
hills. Climb to the summit of an 860ft pass known as Moll’s Gap,
and bear right. Descend into the Owenreagh Valley. After about a mile-and-a-half
you come to the Gap of Dunloe, and one of Munster’s, not to mention
the world’s, finest views.
Beyond Loosnacaunagh Lough (on your right) pass Lady’s View viewpoint,
lying to the left. You’re now in extensive woodland — keep
a sharp look out for red deer — and eventually come to the conical
1,103ft Eagle’s Nest Mountain.
Drive along, and you’ll skirt the base of 1,764ft Torc Mountain
with Muckross Lake on the left.
You'll soon pass the entrance to the magnificent Torc Waterfall on the
right. Continue through dense woodland, passing the entrance to Muckross
House and gardens on the left and shortly after the ruins of Muckross
Abbey (all worth a day’s visit themselves).
In about two miles cross the Flesk, and after a half mile pass a left
turn leading to ruined Ross Castle. From here continue to Killarney town
centre — and you’ll have passed some of the most glorious
scenery Europe has to offer.
 Something
for everyone
Munster has a host of attractions for holidaymakers both young and
old. MALCOLM ROGERS points you in the right direction for a perfect holiday.
Mizen Head is the most southerly part of the mainland
of Ireland, and is basically where Europe comes to an abrupt end. Steep
cliffs mark the westerly limit of Munster rule and EU writ, craggs which
are regularly battered by belligerent storms. The (very necessary) lighthouse
can be reached by a suspension bridge across a rocky chasm. Best not to
look down, really.
But it’s not all angry seas — nearby Barley Cove attracts
bathers and swimmers on a surprisingly regular basis.
Burncourt, Tipperary was built in 1641 and is often
considered the most perfect example of an English Tudor fortified house
in Ireland. The house was burnt in 1650, the fire started by its chatelaine
Lady Everard to prevent the house being used by the approaching Cromwellian
army.
Well done, Lady! Go along and say a prayer for her repose, and admire
her handiwork. The ruins can still be seen in the fertile fields of the
Golden Vale, as much of the original structure still stands.
Dysert O’Dea Castle, Co. Clare stands on a rocky
buttress some half dozen miles north of Ennis. The 15th century tower
house — to give it its proper name — is home to the Clare
Archaeology Centre. Here you can really dig it, so to speak, and find
out more about the cultural heritage of Munster.
The castle is situated by a monastic site founded in the 8th century
by St Tola, an obscure saint (even by Munster standards). The ruins are
wonderfully overgrown by ivy, elderberry and hazel, but this somewhat
adds to the melancholy air of the place. An impressive 12th century High
Cross adorns the easterly doorway.
Brendan the Navigator was the Kerry man reputed to
have beaten Christopher Columbus to the New World by several centuries.
(There’s even a Kerry connection with Christopher Columbus —
when the Santa Maria landed at the other side of the Atlantic in 1492,
a rowing boat was despatched to land on the Americas. It was of course
a Kerry man who jumped ashore first, shouting, “It’s OK Chris,
I’ll haul the old boat up then you can jump out.”)
Whatever the whimsy, Ardfert in Co. Kerry is the ancient stomping ground
of St Brendan — the religious complex in the town includes the ruins
of Teampall na Hoe, Teampall na Griffin and Ardfert Cathedral itself.
Knappogue Castle, Co. Clare was erected by the MacNamaras
in 1467, in whose hands it stayed — except for a brief 10-year interlude
during Cromwellian times — until 1815. During the War of Independence
the following century the castle was held by our lads. It is now in Texan
hands.
There has to be a moral there somewhere, but I’m jiggered if I can
see what it is.
For more elucidation on the topic, book yourself in for a banquet (tel
+ 353 61 360 788). I did, and found it was infinitely more fun than I
could have imagined. Mind you, drink was a factor.
The stone circles and standing stones of Munster, like
all megalithic monuments in Ireland, exercise a strange fascination on
us — perhaps because their exact purpose is not known, and seems
likely to remain that way. Drombeg Stone Circle, just a mile or so east
of Glandore in Co. Cork, is a particularly curious type of structure,
found only in west Cork.
Technically speaking the circle is ‘recumbent’ — taking
its name from a recumbent stone decorated with two egg-shaped cup marks,
simple depressions carved out of the rock. The axis of the circle runs
between two portal stones, and is aligned to the setting sun at the winter
solstice.
Even if you can’t visit on Mid Winter’s Day, this is one
truly mysterious, spooky place dating back probably over 3,000 years,
and then some.
For more on rock groups, a visit to Lough Gur in Co. Limerick
is an essential visit. Much of what we know about Irish pre-history —
especially from the Neolithic period — has been learned from the
stone circles and dolmens of this area. Studies have shown a remarkable
continuity of Limerick folk living in this neck of the woods — for
some 5,000 years at least. “Saw it, liked it, stayed” seems
to have been their motto.
Grubb’s up in Tipp! A day trip to Tipp, in particular
Clogheen, will give you a day to remember. Apart from the charm of this
Tipperary town and the grandeur of nearby Castle Grace, there is the curiosity
value of Grubb’s Grave.
This peculiar monument houses the remains of Samuel Grubb, one-time owner
of Castle Grace. Mr Grubb insisted on being buried upright, presumably
so that come Judgement Day, he’d be up and ready to go. You can
see the perpendicular grave by heading south from Clogheen to Lismore
and heading onto the slopes of Sugar Loaf Hill in the Knockmealdown Mountains.
For contemplation, take the road to Cappoquin in Co. Cork.
The Cistercian monastery, Mount Melleray Abbey, welcomes men and women.
You’ll be housed and fed, and you’re free to join the monks
throughout the day for prayer and Mass.
The bell for Vigils tolls at 3.45 am, but no-one insists you rise at
the scrake of ecclesiastical day. Accommodation is a simple room equipped
with bed, wooden crucifix and a window looking out on the courtyard.
The abbey, set amidst the mist-covered Knockmealdown Mountains, boasts
a library collection of old Irish and medieval manuscripts.
The monks prefer you to stay for at least two nights, in an effort to
prevent the place becoming a B&B.
The cost? You can look it up in James Joyce’s short story The Dead:
“The table then spoke of Mount Melleray, how bracing the air was
down there, how hospitable the monks were and how they never asked for
a penny-piece from their guests.”
The monks still don’t ask a penny-piece — you give what you
can afford.
You’ll see plenty of seals in the Atlantic waters round Cape
Clear Island, only three miles from Ireland’s teardrop,
Fastnet Rock.
The Cape, the southerly most tip of Ireland, is a popular service station
not only for seals, but for migrating birds, whales, sharks, and dolphins.
And of course no discussion of the south west of the country would be
complete without mention of the dolphin Fungi, who has taken up permanent
residence in Dingle Bay since 1983. He can be visited by boat or swimming.
The West Clare Railway, immortalised in song by Percy
French’s Are Ye Right There Michael can be visited at Moyasta Junction
station. Located between Kilrush and Kilkee, this is truly a slice of
old Ireland.
As well as the signal box there’s 1.5 miles of original track with
restored steam trains puffing up and down. All aboard now!
 Limerick
legends
Brendan Behan memorably described Limerick as a city of “piety and shite”.
It’s probably best not to mention this during your visit, even though
the city’s official motto is hardly less stark: “An ancient city well
studied in the arts of war.”
It’s a melancholy enough statement, and one which could be applied to
any of Ireland’s cities. Fortunately, however, the latter half of the
20th century was kind to Ireland, and the 21st century has, so far,
started out benignly enough.
But in every city there are reminders of a turbulent past, as well
as its motto.
Straddling the Shannon at its southerly most point before it opens into
a tidal estuary, Limerick (Luimneach) is Ireland’s fourth largest city
after Dublin, Belfast and Cork. At the very northerly reaches of the
county, it was first visited by the Vikings in the 10th century, thanks
to its handy enough position on the Shannon.
The river continued to exercise its influence on the affairs of the city
for the next 1,000 years.
Hot on the heels of the Danes and co. came the Normans in the 12th and
13th centuries, followed a few centuries later by the those other two
agents of bloodletting in Ireland, Edward the Bruce and Oliver Cromwell.
Although experiencing the full gambit of Ireland’s turbulent history,
three particular episodes are writ large in Limerick’s folk memory. The
first was the surrender of Patrick Sarsfield in 1691, bringing to an end
the Siege of Limerick — you can still visit the Treaty Stone on Thomond
Bridge where a concordant (sometimes called an accordion locally) was
signed between Pat and the Williamites.
In 1919 occurred an event which could have had far-reaching consequences
for Limerick and the rest of Europe — but in the event it didn’t. A
group of workers set up the independent republic of Limerick Soviet in
protest at the extremely oppressive British martial law which operated
in the area.
The workers ruled the city, produced newspapers, issued their own
currency and won global publicity. Eventually they applied to join the
USSR — but the Soviet authorities never replied to the Limerick workers’
letter, and two weeks later the apparatus of the new state was
dismantled. But the episode is still admired and celebrated throughout
the world. Or at any rate in Limerick.
The Munster city’s other major contribution to world history is, of
course, the invention of the Garryowen, a specialist type of kick used
in rugby, and named after an area in the city.
The Normans made the first imprint on the city to remain today, building
on the work done by sundry other inhabitants — Celts, Irish and Vikings.
The impressive King John’s Castle (1210) which continues to stand some
800 years later, is a shining example of Anglo-Norman architecture.
Located on King’s Island along with the rest of the remains of
Limerick’s medieval centre, the castle boasts an impressive visitor’s
centre which gives a vivid account of how life was conducted in the
middle ages. From the ramparts of the castle there are terrific views of
the Shannon, which afforded a degree of protection for the city,
Limerick’s hinterland and the city itself. For opening times and
admission tel: + 353 (0) 61 360 788.
King’s Island is also the home of St. Mary’s Cathedral, which is thought
to have been built around 1190, making it older than the castle. The
nave and parts of the transepts remain from the 12th century, but much
of the rest of the building dates from the 15th century.
Some of this ‘new-fangled’ architecture and design includes the
beautifully carved choir seats or ‘misericords’ made out of carved black
oak, bearing various grotesque features of griffins, sphinx, phoenix and
boar. These are unique in Irish churches.
The substantial St. John’s Cathedral boasts the tallest spire in the
country, some 280 feet. St. John’s has possession of a number of
interesting items preserved in the cathedral treasury, including a 15th
century mitre and silver-gilt crozier.
The old quays dating back to Viking times have been redeveloped into
riverside restaurants, bistros, craft shops and designer-label outlets.
The Vikings would be more than delighted that their trading instincts
are still to the fore. Arthur’s Quay and Steamboat Quay are the key to
cafés, bars, bistros and shops.
Limerick’s main thoroughfare, O'Connell Street, runs southwards to the
Crescent (c1810) which is a beautiful collection of elegant Georgian
buildings, now largely occupied by financial institutions.
For refreshment as you’re passing this area anyway, drop into the White
House Bar in O’Connell Street. On the arty side, but they serve a
devastatingly good pint.
South’s Pub just near The Crescent is also worth a visit. This is where
Frank McCourt’s Da used to drink, so you’ll not be surprised to hear
that it was used in the film version of Angela’s Ashes.
If you really want to get to grips with Limerick life past and present,
check out the Hunt Museum in Limerick University. This exemplary place
starts at the Bronze Age and proceeds onwards. The Hunt is also a
cracking place to have lunch — home-made dishes are a specialty,
although whether they’ll run to packet and tripe is another matter
entirely.
This is a favourite Limerick dish, and — it would have to be said —
something of a vegetarian’s nightmare, consisting as it does of boiled
blood sausages and the lining of cow’s stomach cooked in milk. And it’s
not as nice as it sounds, If you’re a vegan you may well be lucky enough
to read the traditional sign outside a pub proclaiming, “The packet and
tripe is all run out.”
And finally, a word about the eponymously-named poetic form. Here’s what
the editor of the Limerick Leader had to say about the style a couple of
years back: “I am sick to death of obscure English towns that exist
seemingly for the sole accommodation of these so-called Limerick writers
— and even sicker of their residents, all of whom suffer from physical
deformities and spend their time dismembering relatives at fancy dress
balls.”
The exact origins of the word includes theories about Limerick soldiers
sending their loved ones poems from abroad; there’s also a theory that
the early 19th century Irish language poets from the Maigue, Co.
Limerick wrote in a similar form.
The truth is, however, the connection between the limerick and Ireland
is tenuous, and may have come about because Limerick is a difficult word
to rhyme with. |
