Ireland: A walker’s paradise
 By
Malcolm Rogers
Ireland is not blessed with the same number of rights-of-way or bridleways
as England; neither does it have the common law found in Sweden and Germany
called ‘allmannsrecht’ or ‘every person’s right’
to wander anywhere.
But what Ireland does have by way of compensation is huge expanses of
countryside — mountains, moorland, bogland, coastline and woodland
— where you can wander all day, and you’ll be lucky if you
meet another soul.
Even an open road in, say, the middle of Offaly or the depths of Tyrone
is likely to be considerably less busy (and more relaxing) than the Pennine
Way in England, the hiking route which usually has to be closed on Bank
Holidays due to the huge numbers visiting.
A Shore Thing
Coastland walks abound in Ireland — the snaking one atop the Antrim
Coast road’s world-renowned panoramas, the cliff path along Slieve
League in Donegal(Europe’s highest sea cliffs), or along the Mayo
coastline at Belmullet.
Benone Strand in Co Derry looks out over the Inishowen Peninsula and
is, incidentally and somewhat incongruously, the alleged home of the only
Irishman to have been present in Jerusalem on the day Christ was crucified.
Whether you find this uplifting or not is a matter for yourself —
but you won’t fail to be impressed by the bracing ten-mile strand
More gentle seaside strolls are to be had just outside Dublin —
along Dollymount Strand to the nature reserve of Bull Island, or further
south from Tramore in Waterford to Ross Carbery in west Cork.
The lowdown on the mountains
If something more strenuous is required, head for the hills. The Ox Mountains
on the Sligo-Leitrim border boast enchanting, remote walking routes —
some taking you past the beautiful setting of Easky Lough. Macgillycuddy’s
Reeks, Kerry, provide some real mountaineering — the Kerry Way takes
you through some of the best hill-walking areas giving beautiful views
across the Iveragh landscape.
The Sperrins in Derry-Tyrone are the sort of mountains to contemplate
if you’re a hill walker of modest ability. Although impressive in
appearance the peaks are fairly easily climbed. Mullaghmore (1825 ft),
or the more modest Crockalougha (1347 ft) are both within range of the
only-averagely-fit. Nonetheless if you gain the summit your reward is
a panorama which stretches from mid-Ulster to the hills of Donegal.
The geologically famous Slieve Gullion rock group in Armagh are equally renowned
in legend and story, while Mournes provide some excellent hill-walking.
Slieve Donard — the highest mountain in the north — is about
two or more hours up, but if done the ‘easy’ way along the
Mourne Wall asn’t too strenuous. And you’ll feel the better
of it for days; remember the old saying — there’s a hill for
every ill.
 Make
way!
Several ‘Way-marked routes’ criss-cross Ireland — the
Ulster Way, The Tain Way, the West Way and so on for several thousands
of kilometres.
The Wicklow Way, making its way through the heights of the Wicklow Mountains,
is in parts for the more seasoned hill walker only. However the lower
reaches are entirely suitable for the only averagely fit. The first such
trail was formally established in 1980 and represents the most westerly
section of the E8 footpath which extends across much of Europe.
The Wicklow Way begins in Dublin’s southern suburb of Rathfarnham
and travels in a south-south-westerly direction across the Dublin and
Wicklow uplands, then through the rolling hill country of southwest County
Wicklow to finish in the small County Carlow village of Clonegal 132 kilometres
later.
Clonegal is itself a wonderful destination — a sleepy Irish village
on the banks of the Slaney with the haunted Huntington Castle lurking
in the centre. History’s broad sweep includes everything from Norman
forts to pre-Christian bullawns and from the Civil War right back to the
United Irishmen. And quite frankly, if you don’t find the prospect
of all that in-your-face history a bit overwhelming, then you probably
haven’t been listening for the last five or eight centuries.
This combination of castles and countryside, forest trails and scenic
mountain landscape offers a wonderfully varied, ten-day experience for
a hill-walker of average fitness.
The Slieve Bloom Way takes in lofty peaks, ancient bogland and lush forest.
Riverside walks and lonely tracks lead to ancient historical sites. The
Slieve Bloom Mountains are without doubt one of Ireland’s hidden
gems, boasting an almost unlimited amount of varied activities including
walking, cycling, heritage tours, equestrian trails and Irish music and
dancing festivals.
The villages hereabouts look positively edible, the colour of a ploughman’s
lunch, crusty brown bread and white cheese simply frothing with cow parsley.
The mountains are one of the oldest ranges in Ireland and rise gently
in a heathery wave from the limestone plains that characterise the centre
of Ireland. Heather and blanket bog dominate the summit plateau which
is dotted with beautiful glens and valleys. From the highest point, Arderin
or ‘The Height of Ireland’ at 527 metres, it is possible to
see the highest points of each of Ireland’s four provinces.
The Slieve Bloom Way is a 69 kilometre circular trek which can be joined
anywhere but most popularly begins and ends in the small village of Rosenallis.
It can be done in just three days, but five days to a week would allow
for a more relaxing experience of the Way.
Aside from the spectacular geological and botanical features of the
Slieve Bloom Way, some 65 species of birds will share the day with you,
as well as the odd wild deer or feral goat.
Tain Trail
The area surrounding Carlingford Lough is a walker’s paradise.
Unspoilt rolling countryside dotted with villages and occasional small
towns. Dramatic hill and mountain country; clean, fresh air that’s
crystal clear — the views go on for ever. And a warm welcome everywhere
— guaranteed.
The Cooley Peninsula provides excellent, moderate hill walking, particularly
in the Cooley Mountains and Slieve Foy. The Tain Trail is a 40 kilometre
(26 mile) marked walk in the beautiful Cooley and Carlingford mountains, starting
from the beautiful medieval town of Carlingford — itself a world-beating
blend of natural beauty and human artistry. Spectacular views over the
surrounding countryside and across Carlingford Lough are a constant delight.
 Achill
Island, Mayo
Just above Keem Strand to the north of the Achill island you can take
to the hills and a fairly easy half hour climb will reward you with magnificent
views across of Croagh Patrick, with the horizon dotted with the Sheefrey
Hills and the Mweelrea Mountains. In the middle distance lie Clare Island,
Inishturk and Inishark and funnily enough you can also see Bill’s
Rock with the Twelve Bens behind them. It can be windy here, sometimes
it looks as if the horizon might almost break loose from its moorings
— so wrap up warm.
Near the Megalithic tombs at the top of the island lie the loughs of Nakereega
and Bunnafreva. This route has been described by Robert Lloyd Praeger
in The Way I Went as one of the most exhilarating walks anywhere, a statement
hard to argue with. Or for that matter with the writer Graham Greene who
is reputed to have gained inspiration for some of his greatest works from
walking the cliffs in this very area.
It doesn’t have to be all uphill toil — the beaches round
these parts are perfect for ambling along. White strands stretching for
miles, with the sea a Picasso-esque melange of turquoise, purple and forty
shades of blue.
Tollymore Forest
The Narnia trail in Co Down hasn’t been over-publicised yet. Belfast
man CS Lewis is said to have drawn much of his inspiration for the Chronicles
of Narnia from his hiking through the Cooleys in Louth and Slieve Gullion
in Armagh. But one place was always favoured by him — Tollymore
Forest Park on the slopes of the Mourne Mountains in Co Down.
And if it’s a fantasyland you want to conjure up, this is the place
to start. Park in the main car park where the Big House used to be, then
make your way through the arboretum (itself worth an hour or two of your
time), past the big stone lion’s head (Aslan?) and down towards
the Shimna River.
Dotted along the deep salmon pools are impossibly picturesque bridges
fully equipped with little stone sentry boxes, stepping stones which lead
you from one river bank to the other and Victorian follies which certainly
lead you to the conclusion that the former owners of this paradise might
have had too much time on their hands.
There’s also what’s known as The Hermitage — two very
strange stone buildings set high above a waterfall, surrounded by dark
trees. It looks for all the world like some poor Anchorite’s dwelling
lace, but is in fact an 18th century memorial to one of the family members.
A truly enchanting walk. But look out for lions and witches.
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