Away to the west
 Connemara
is easy enough to define geographically. It’s that part of western
Co. Galway north of the coastal district of Cois Fharraige south of Killary
Harbour, and west of Oughterard stretching as far as Slyne Head Island.
Geologically it’s not too difficult to sum up either the interior
is dominated by quartzite peaks and, needless to say, a load of old schist.
Which may not sound very nice but come to think of it there’s plenty
of that too gneiss, that is. The Twelve Bens (aka the Twelve Pins) and
intervening valleys are largely made up of gneiss, with seams of granite
and limestone interspersed.
OK, geologically and geographically, no problem. But trying to capture
the spirit of Connemara is a lot more difficult. To many people these
westerly uplands are quintessential Ireland. When people the world over
conjure up an image of Ireland it is Connemara they see in their mind’s
eye. Here at the edge of Europe the rugged landscape encompasses bogland,
mountains, tightly walled fields and a dramatic coastline. Stand on your
tip toes here and you can almost see New York.
Ancient pagan monuments, religious shrines, vibrant towns full of craic
for the less ecclesiastically minded, all make up this extraordinary Gaeltacht
area. Nowhere in Ireland resonates with more unchanging tradition than
here in the West, where the days are long and the nights are filled with
craic. As the old saying goes, it’s an hour nearer the sunset than
the rest of Europe.
Capital place
Clifden (or An Clochan “the Stepping Stones”) is the “Capital”
of Connemara. Framed by the wild grandeur of the Twelve Bens and with
its two impressive church spires and view across Ardbear Bay, the town
is one of Ireland’s finest. Apart from being a fine centre from
which to explore the rest of Connemara, Clifden is something of a centre
for traditional music and also sean nós singing.
The town was founded in 1815 by the D’Arcy family, in an effort
to throw some shape into the lawlessness of Connemara. Sad to report,
the family went bankrupt in the attempt. But not before leaving behind
an impressive municipal legacy.
To the south west of Clifden a road skirts the shores of Mannin Bay, and
inland on the moors is a very auspicious site — the landing place
of the world’s first trans-Atlantic flight. A memorial to John Alcock
and Arthur Brown commemorates the crossing. Nearby is the site of Marconi’s
wireless station which exchanged the first transatlantic radio messages
with Nova Scotia in 1907.
 In the other
direction the Sky Road is a seven mile circular route through Connemara
with stunning views over the Atlantic. The ruins of Clifden Castle, the
military seat of the afore-mentioned D’Arcy, sits on a suitably
desolate (but beautiful) stretch of road.
A short drive to the east of Clifden is Dan O’Hara’s Homestead
which recreates the grinding hardship of life in Connemara in the 1840s.
Altogether now:
“Oh hush grá machree, won’t you buy a box from me
And help your Uncle Dan from Connemara,
Sure I sell them cheap and low, buy a box before you go
From your poor old Uncle Dan from Connemara.
Talking big bucks
Connemara National Park, stretching from Clifden to beyond the Twelve
Bens, is home to a large herd of red deer, Ireland’s largest surviving
native mammal. Go in spring and you’ll seem them strutting their
stuff.
You also might spot the semi-wild Connemara ponies, which have been munching
their way round these hills for millennia.
The blanket bogs and moorlands are botanist’s paradise with rare
specimens such as St Dabeoc’s health only found here and nowhere
else in these islands.
Bird life is similarly impressive stonechats, peregrine falcons and merlins
can be spotted regularly amongst the towering crags. The Park is also
home to the imposing Kylemore Abbey on Kylemore Lough. Arched gateways,
Victorian glasshouses and walled ornamental gardens are all part of the
impossibly beautiful Kylemore Abbey Gardens sheltering under the Twelve
Bens in Connemara. Today, most of the original character has been restored,
and the gardens are open to the public.
Gateway to the west
Oughterard is Connemara’s other main town. Uachter Árd or
the ‘High Upper Place’ aka ‘the Gateway to Connemara’
was in medieval times the stronghold of the O’Flaherties, the scourge
of Galway city. Indeed the west gate of Galway was adorned in former times
with the inscription:
“From the fury of the O’Flaherties,
Good Lord deliver us.”
The area was finally reduced to obedience under the reign of Queen Elizabeth
I.you can still see the ruins of the 16th century O’Flahertie Castle
at Aughanure, a little to the south east of the village on the road to
Galway.
Equipped with thatched cottage pub, traditional stone buildings and a
19th century church, the crowning glory is the lovely Owenriff River running
through the town. It starts high in Connemara’s mountains and empties,
at the edge of town, into Lough Corrib.
The area is a centre of excellence for anglers — Lough Corrib is
the largest lake in the Republic and it not only offers some of the most
spectacular views around but it is a world-renowned fishing spot. The
freshwater trout and salmon lure fishermen from all over the world to
try their luck.
If fishing is a wee bit energetic an activity for you, your salmon can
still be sampled in one of Oughterard’s several restaurants.
Boating and cruising are also to be recommended on Lough Corrib craft
are available locally, as well as maps of the many islands on the lough
which you can explore. Inchagoill is the largest, and is an enchanting
place with a couple of ruined churches one dating back to the 12th century,
Teampall na Naomh. On an obelisk is to be found one of the oldest Christian
inscriptions in Europe.
Oughterard is the starting point for the Western Way, approximately 31
miles, and passing through some of the most dramatic scenery in Ireland,
nay, the world.
Take a flight to the heart of Connemara
 IF YOU’RE
looking to travel to Connacht there’s no better way than with Aer
Arann.
The company is one of the fastest growing regional airlines in the world
with a turnover in excess of E94million per annum and passenger numbers
in excess of 1million for 2005.
The airline operates over 600 flights per week across Ireland, Britain
and France.
The company employs over 400 staff and has experienced substantial growth
over the past year with the launch of 11 new routes as well as increases
in flight frequency.
The airline recently took delivery of two additional 66-seater aircraft
to accommodate this expansion bringing its total fleet size to 13 ATR
aircraft.
Aer Arann currently operates out of London Luton into Galway in the heart
of the West of Ireland.
There are two flights daily from London Luton departing at 1.30pm and
9.30pm Monday to Fridays, 2pm and 8pm on Saturdays and 3.10pm and 9.40pm
on a Sunday.
Fares start from £39.99 one way including taxes.
For further information and booking check out the website www.aerarann.com
Earlier this year Aer Arann also announced the launch of a new service
from Liverpool John Lennon Airport to Galway for the summer season.
Fares start from £29.99 one way including taxes. The flights depart
on Monday, Thursday and Friday at 12pm and 8pm on Sundays.
This will be the airline’s sixth route from Galway adding to existing
services to and from Dublin, London Luton, Manchester, Edinburgh and Lorient
in South Brittany.
Gateway to Connemara
 CONNEMARA by
the sea many songs have been written about this beautiful part of Ireland.
A short drive from Galway City on the N59 passing Moycullen you will then
enter the historic town of Oughterard.
Oughterard has many attractions for the visitor a superb golf course,
fishing and cruising on Lough Corrib, hill walking or visit Aughnanure
Castle.
And you can enjoy it all with a stop or stay at the award-winning Connemara
Gateway Hotel.
This 64-bedroom hotel has everything to offer the holidaymaker 64 en-suite
bedrooms, swimming pool, superb food, live music nightly in O’Nuallain’s
bar, a la carte menu in the Pinetrees Restaurant, fine wines and total
relaxation.
The Connemara Gateway Hotel stands on its own mature grounds and is the
ideal location as the hub of your holiday.
Towns such as Clifden, Westport, Castlebar, Cong are just a nice drive
away.
Visit Ashford Castle or check out the scenes from the Quite Man movie.
And a shor trip gets you to the port for a visit to the Aran Islands.
From there you can fly or travel by ferry to the islands which are just
minutes away.
Galway city is also a must. This vibrant city deserves at least one
day of your time. Check out the old city walls or dine in many of the
restaurants down by the Claddagh or perhaps relax by the seaside in adjoining
Salthill.
The staff at the Connemara Gateway Hotel in Oughterard will be more than
happy to plan your stay and get the most out of this beautiful region.
To discover more about the Connemara Gateway Hotel telephone 00 353 91
552328 or 00 353 87 2122040 or e-mail info@connemaragateway.com |
