| Wandering in the Wee County
Malcolm Rogers pays a visit to Louth.
The ‘wee county’ of Co. Louth is the smallest county in Ireland, but
it packs an amazing amount of sights and diversion within its borders. And
it’s not just the lovely countryside which it has to recommend it — the
people here are just about the friendliest anywhere, the paddywhackery index
is very low (measured scientifically by number of leprechauns on sale divided
by number of Oirish ye olde banqueting halls) and the towns and villages
still have their own individual characters.
Steeped in folklore, the Cooley Peninsula is especially enticing. The
scene of Ireland’s most famous Celtic legend, the Cattle Raid of Cooley,
and also home ground of St. Brigid, it boasts a magnificent mountain range
— fully equipped with wild goats, wild horses, equally spectacular beaches
watched over by the Mourne Mountains, plus the ridiculously picturesque
medieval town of Carlingford.
History both terrible and heroic lurks round every corner — on an average
walk you can cover 5,000 years of history. The area is rich in prehistoric
monuments including several pre-Celtic megalithic tombs. There are a couple
of fine examples at Clontygora near Carnavaddy, the mountain which is said
to be the burial place of the mastiff Bran, Fionn MacCumhail’s faithful
hound.
Not much further on you come to a recent republican memorial poignantly
overlooking a lonely spot on the Edenfore road in the shadow of Clermont
Mountain.
It is easy to forget this aspect of an area which has seen its fair share
of tragedy. It is peaceful now, one of the most tranquil places you could
imagine, with practically no manifestation of the border. Just after the
Second World War there was a time difference between Dundalk and Newry (just
across the border) of an astonishing two hours. Nowadays there is more of
a boundary dividing Essex from Cambridge than there is between Co. Louth
and Co. Down. There is absolutely no hint of a divide — no customs posts,
no security check, and virtually no difference in the landscape. With, of
course, the exception of the police stations — in Louth they look straight
off the set of Ballykissangel, in the North they make Castle Dracula appear
friendly. And of course Romeo Juliet Watchtower I, belonging to the British
army, still keeping its baleful watch on the traffic making its way along
the Dublin Road.
Dundalk, one of the main towns in the county, is not only home to the
Celtic hero Cú Chulainn and The Corrs, but also to some of the finest traditional
music pubs on the island. Long a destination for Northern traditional musicians
of a Sunday because in former days all pubs closed on the Sabbath in the
North, the habit continues to this day. However a sésun at full throttle
can usually be found in pubs any night of the week.
These pubs are just about as un-slug and lettuce as you could find, with
the craic always in the region of the proverbial ninety.
Drogheda, in the southerly part of the county is a port which traditionally
served the Boyne valley. It was founded by one Hugh de Lacey round about
1180, and still bears evidence of its long history.
The Drogheda skyline is punctuated with spires and belfries rising from
the town. Numerous historic delights are tucked away from the main thoroughfares,
including the imperious medieval St. Laurence’s gate. Drogheda is also a
vibrant centre for performing arts, restaurants and cafes and of course
some terrific bars in the very shadow of St. Loz’s.
Despite its medieval associations, however, the main reason for many
pilgrimages to Dogheda is to visit the relics of Saint Oliver Plunkett,
a Meath man who did well for himself by being promoted to the See of Armagh,
and becoming head of the Church in Ireland.
He did rather less well for himself when he came to the notice of the
English — he was hung drawn and quartered in Tyburn, now Marble Arch. His
body was eventually returned to Drogheda. You can pay your respects to this
giant of the Christian Church at St. Peter’s in the centre of the town.
While on matters religious, should you wish to meditate further, head
for Monasterboice. This haven of tranquility is hidden well off the main
Dundalk to Drogheda road in Co. Louth by the side of beautifully wooded
lane. Although not as well known as Glendalough or Clonmacnois, Monasterboice
has one the finest High Crosses in Ireland, dating back to the 8th century.
Take careful contemplative note of the stories carved in the Cross of
Muiredach. A distinctly humorous touch is given to a very serious point
— the devil is depicted lustily kicking the damned into hell, while the
saved are carefully herded away. Just the thing to ponder on if your next
stop is a stag party or the like in Dublin.
At Monasterboice there is also a wonderful example of that structure
unique to Ireland, the round tower.
This is a wonderfully peaceful place in the heart of rural Ireland. The
biggest crowd you’re likely to encounter in here is probably the crows from
the nearby rookery, chattering and cawing away, as they undoubtedly have
been doing since St. Buithe founded the place in the fifth century.
Louth is also something of a haven for flowers — the wild ones you’ll
find growing everywhere from the sheltered sand dunes of Templetown to the
heights of the Cooley Mountains. The cultured ones you can visit — and chat
to if you happen to be a member of the British royal family — at places
such as Beaulieu House & Gardens, Drogheda (tel 00 353 41 983 8557), Millhouse
Gardens, Dundalk (00 343 42 937 4354) or O’Grady’s Garden, Monasterboice
(00 353 41 982 6368). The latter is the latest addition to the gardens of
Louth, and consists of specimen trees, shrubs and some very rare plants.
If dining out is your thing, head for Carlingford. This little medieval
town has more entries in the prestigious Bridgestone Guide than any other
town of comparable size. Pride of place goes to Ghan House, a Georgian pile
which specializes in gourmet food tel (00 353 41 937 3682), but also recommended
are The Oystercatcher Lodge, McKevitt’s Village Hotel, El Capitano Corelli’s
and the Kingfisher.
|
