| Marvellous Days Out in Munster
By Malcolm Rogers
Visit Clonmel
This is probably Tipperary’s most scenic town and the birthplace of (in
1713) of Laurence Sterne, writer of the Life and Times of Tristram Shandy.
Pay your respects to the writer and stroll through the old town. The museum
in Parnell Street is a must if you’re interested in local history — maps,
newspapers, paintings and postcards vie for space.
Take a Hike
The Knockmealdown and Galtee Mountains are ideal for hill-walkers as
opposed to seasoned mountaineers. These are amongst the most picturesque
of Ireland’s inland mountains, and offer endless easy walks leading to some
quite spectacular views.
Pay a Flying Visit
During the 1930s and early 1940s, Foynes in Co. Limerick was the pivotal
point for air traffic between North America and Europe, what is now called
a hub airport.
But way back then flying was a more rigorous business than today, so
it’s no wonder that Irish coffee was invented here — to fortify the doughty
air travellers. The Foynes Flying Boat Museum recalls this era with exhibits
and illustrations, a 1940s style cinema and the original terminal building.
Learn About Limerick
Limerick Medieval Heritage Precinct organises walking trails which connect
the various ancient landmarks like the Treaty Stone with 13th century King
John’s Castle and the River Shannon at its heart.
Grubb’s Up!
Take a day trip to Tipp, in particular Clogheen. Apart from the charm
of this Tipperary town and the grandeur of nearby Castle Grace, there is
the curiosity value of Grubb’s Grave.
This peculiar monument houses the remains of Samuel Grubb, one time owner
of Castle Grace. Mr. Grubb insisted on being buried upright, presumably
so that come Judgement Day, he’d be up and ready to go. You can see the
perpendicular grave by heading south from Clogheen to Lismore and heading
onto the slopes of Sugar Loaf Hill in the Knockmealdown Mountains.
The Hunt’s Over
If you’re looking for a truly absorbing museum, pay a visit to the Hunt
Museum, an internationally important collection of some 2000 original works
of art and antiquity, from Stone Age to the 20th century, including a bronze
horse by Leonardo da Vinci, and paintings by Renoir, Picasso and Yeats.
Plug and Pray
Junk the jalopy and head for the hills to say your prayers at St. Finbarr’s
Oratory, Gouganebarra in Cork. To the north-east of the Pass of Keimaneigh,
set on the shores of romantic mountain lake of Gougane Barra, this place
is tranquillity personified.
The lough itself is about a mile long, surrounded by high mountains including
Bealick and Foilastooken, and is the source of the River Lee. Overlooking
it is an ancient graveyard, much venerated in former times, St. Finbarr’s
Well and a cluster of monk’s buildings.
The whole scene is undoubtedly one of the most striking in Ireland.
Contemplation in Clare
Contemplate on Holy Island, Co. Clare, some 300 metres from the Mountshannon
shore. Inis Cealtra is home to remarkable ancient church buildings and monuments.
This is one of Ireland’s most peaceful and extensive early monastic sites,
at the mouth of Scariff Bay in Lough Derg, the largest of the Shannon lakes.
Lough Derg — not to be confused with the Lough Derg of St Patrick’s Purgatory
in Co. Donegal — is the Shannon’s last stop before it goes plunging into
the Atlantic.
Unique among the site’s riches is the “Confessional”, or Anchorites’
cell, but even if you have limited interest in historical buildings the
atmosphere on this place will clutch at your soul.
Cooking in Cork
Attend a cookery course (from one day to 12 weeks) at the world famous
Ballymaloe Cookery School in Co. Cork. Classes are given by Ireland’s foremost
cook Darina Allen, with classes covering everything from cooking Irresistible
Breakfasts to Stress-Free Entertaining. It is also the only place in the
world were you can learn to cook with carrageen, or Irish moss. Tel. 00
353 21 646785,
www.ballymaloe-cookery-school.ie.
Have a Whale of a Time
They may be shaped like torpedoes, have no neck or ears and appear
completely hairless but you can’t help loving seals. And you’ll see
plenty of them in the Atlantic waters round Cape Clear Island, only
three miles from “Ireland’s teardrop” Fastnet Rock. The Cape, the
southerly most tip of Ireland, is a popular service station not only for
seals, but for migrating birds, whales, sharks, and dolphins. There’s a
permanently manned sea-bird observatory, and you can also take boat
trips out to Fastnet Rock and around the 100 islands of Roaringwater Bay
to look for those gentle giants of the deep the basking sharks. Pilot
and minke whales are also regular visitors, and you might even see a few
orcas — or killer whales. Call 00 353 28 39153 for more details — and
don’t be surprised if a dolphin answers the phone, they’ve become so
used to human company.
Blooming Good Visit
Visit Mount Congreve in Co. Waterford. The gardens here are in flower
every month of the year — thanks to its sheltered position and south
easterly location — but the time to go is spring or early summer when
all the great magnolias, plus dozens of recent hybrids, are in bloom.
The trees are planted in such profusion that you’re guaranteed a display
of white, pink and red blooms which even the foothills of the Himalayas,
the magnolia’s ancestral home, would be hard pushed to rival.
This is one of the great free days out in Ireland. Tel 00 353 51 384511.
Observe the Observatory
Take a trip to Valentia Observatory, which despite its name is not
on the island but in Cahirciveen. The historic weather station measures
earth tremors, ozone levels and magnetic fluctuations. Another part of
the Observatory monitors climate change by logging the date when buds,
leaves and flowers appear.
Meteorological observation has had a long history in Ireland — our early
monks were among the first record keepers in the world — and this
station is part of that tradition. It boasted the first trans-Atlantic
telegraph cable, Marconi’s wireless station, and some of the first
weather balloons. You can still see the latter being released.
The Observatory is not open all week, so phone ahead: 00 353 66 9476353.
Rock Solid
Visit the Rock of Cashel, standing 300 ft above the fertile plains of
Co. Tipperary. Probably Ireland’s most dramatic monument — and goodness
knows there’s enough competition for that title. This fifth century
fortification of the King of Munster, built before planning permission
was required, dominates the town of Cashel and surrounding land.
Today it is a cluster of buildings which includes King Cormac’s Chapel,
the 10th century Round Tower and the thirteenth century cathedral — and
you’ll be hard pushed to find a more interesting day out in Ireland.
Island Hopping and Dining
Have a meal at Island Cottage Restaurant, Heir Island, Skibbereen,
Co. Cork. Pricey enough, and you have to get a boat out to the island
(and then walk a mile up a boreen), but the superb set menu is the toast
of all of West Cork’s jet-setting population. Book well in advance: 00
353 28 38102 and you could find yourself sitting beside John Hurt or
Jeremy Paxman. And if the latter starts getting lippy with the waiter,
tell him to mind his manners.
Music in Munster
Although traditional music abounds in Munster, if you’d rather learn
an instrument than listen to somebody else playing, head for the Willie
Clancy summer school in Miltown Malbay in Co. Clare. It begins the first
Saturday in July. Telephone: 00 353 65 708 4148 or 00 353 65 708 4281
Accommodation can also be arranged.
Visit the Burren
One of the few places in the world where Arctic flowers grow alongside
sub-tropical plants. An enchanting, almost ridiculously surreal
landscape, this rugged scenery covers a plateau of 10 square miles in
North Clare. A must-see place.
Marvel at Moher
You’ve seen the Cliffs of Moher on just about every guide to Ireland,
you’ve seen them in every travelogue ever made about he country — you’ve
probably even seen them popping up on television and in the odd film.
But nothing could actually compare with the grandeur of the real thing.
The best way to see the Cliffs is from the sea — catch a boat at Doolin,
sit back in the cabin, and prepare yourself for one of the world’s
grandest sights.
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