| Connacht Rambles
By Malcolm Rogers
Strokestown Park House and Garden in Co. Roscommon has now been restored
to its full 18th century splendour, with some fine paintings, curios and
antiques. Originally a Jacobean mansion, of particular interest are some
original documents and images from the Great Famine. To the west are several
small loughs, and to the south rise the heights of Slieve Bawn from which
you can get terrific the winding Shannon away to the east.
Croagh Patrick, which is climbed by the faithful on Reek Sunday in July,
is one of Ireland’s best known landmarks. Mayo’s holy mountain is actually
a harder climb than you might imagine — despite the fact that some pilgrims
do the journey barefoot.
From the start of the trail at Campbell’s Pub in Murrisk where you’ll
find a huge statue of St. Patrick. From here it’s approximately two hours
up the 2,500 feet to the flat peak of the scree-clad mountain.
This is also the location of the National Famine Museum.
Céide Fields Visitor Centre is the world’s most extensive Stone Age site
in the world. Five miles west of Ballycastle, Co. Mayo, there are burial
sites and field systems dating back 5,000 years. Part of the bog has been
cut away to reveal the collapsed stone walls of the ancient fields, and
there’s an interpretative centre where you can get an idea how our early
ancestors lived. Tel 00 353 (0) 96 43325
Visit Knock and pay your respects to the hallowed area where, in 1879,
two local Mayo women saw an apparition of Our Lady, St. Joseph and St. John
the Evangelist. Every year more than a million people visit the Shrine where
the event took place. Nearby is the Basilica of Our Lady, and adjacent is
Knock Folk Museum which portrays life in 19th century Ireland.
About 12 kilometres along the Clifden to Recess road stand the gates
of Ballynahinch Castle. This is one of the finest places to stay in Ireland
— sumptuous comfort in the middle of the wildest, most spectacular scenery
in Europe.
The hotel is situated on Ballynahinch Lake, at the foot of Benlettery,
and the Lough is stuffed with salmon, trout, otters and bird life.
But although far removed from the hurly burly of modern life, prepare
to be bowled over by one of the most sophisticated modern hotels you’re
ever likely to come across, with all mod cons necessary for gracious and
sophisticated living. Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, Recess, Connemara. Tel:
00 353 95 31006
The fishing village, Kinvara, Co. Galway lies at the southern end of
Galway Bay. There’s a massive castle overlooking the bay, listed Georgian
courthouse, a thatched hotel, small pastel-washed houses, neat little shops
all independently owned, and a fishing harbour with Galway hookers on show.
Note that these ‘hookers’ are traditional fishing vessels, and on that score
“Cruinniú na mBad”, the Gathering of the Boats, is held in the second week
of August.
This is a regatta with music, craic, dance and song added. Imagine the
Henley Regatta as if organised by Shane MacGowan and you might begin to
get the picture.
Moorlands Equestrian Centre, Drumshanbo, Co. Leitrim (00 353 78 (0) 41500
is the place to head for if your kids have an interest in horses — this
school specifically caters for children’s parties. Situated on the southerly
most tip of Lough Allen on the River Shannon, the school provides horse-riding
lessons, pony trekking and pony care demonstrations. The idyllic setting
is dominated by Sliabh-An-Iarainn and the Arigna Mountains, providing a
maze of hidden trails ripe for exploration.
Get your timbers suitably shivered by taking a boat tour round Connemara’s
island communities. Island-hopping walking holidays organised by Connemara
Safari, tel: 00 353 95 21071
www.walkingconnemara.com
are hosted by Ireland’s well known archaeologist Gerry MacCloskey. Helping
Gerry out is Gerry Greensmyth a walking encyclopedia of walking in Mayo,
and Brian Hughes, a native of Connemara.
The tours visit islands without regular ferry services, and are ideal
for giving you a taste of the area’s history, botany and social life.
Go to the Galway Races, or Galway Races Summer Festival Meeting to give
it its full title, in Ballybrit. The longest race festival in the world,
you can indulge yourself in a week of soaking up the atmosphere, studying
form, and hurling torn-up betting slips into the bin. Racing tips and tipple,
fairground amusements and music, plus busking, hawking and of course “half
a million people there of all denominations — the Catholic, the Protestant
the Jew the Presbyterian.”
For more information, email galway@iol.ie,
or tel 00 353 (0) 91 753 870.
Visit W.B. Yeats’ grave in Drumcliff Cemetery in Co. The , still one
of the most romantic counties in Ireland despite the rash of Mexican style
bungalows that blight most of the coastal region. After casting a cold eye
on life, on death (as per Yeats’ instructions on his headstone) pass by,
but instead of heading for the sea, turn inland and a few miles from Drumcliff
you will reach the magnificent Glencar Lough. Equip yourself with a copy
of Aedh Wishes For The Cloths Of Heaven, sit on the banks of the lough with
the nearby waterfalls as a soundtrack, and soak up the atmosphere. “Had
I the heaven’s embroidered cloths…”
Visit a unique slice of Irish countryside, the Burren in Co. Clare. It’s
a harsh, strange, but hauntingly beautiful region which occupies most of
the top north western corner of Clare. In spring and summer it’s home to
both Arctic and Mediterranean flowers filling the trenches (or grykes as
they’re known locally) between huge limestone slabs. A surreal, lunar type
landscape — you truly won’t come across anything like it anywhere else in
the world.
Visit what is arguably Ireland’s most holy place — the churchyard of
St. Eanna on the Aran Island of Inishmore. Over 120 recognised saints are
buried there. The shortest crossing point to the islands is from Doolin,
Co. Clare. Tel 00 353 65 74455.
Turoe Pet Farm and Leisure Park, Turoe House, Bullaun, Loughrea, Co.
Galway, tel 00 353 (0) 91 841580 is located in a beautiful rural area of
Galway. This 14-acre pet farm boasts extensive all-weather facilities including
a nature trail which takes you through all the animals grazing in the fields.
Once you’ve made friends with the goats, sheep, Shetland ponies etc, the
kids can have a go on the outdoor playgrounds, indoor play areas, or play
on one of the biggest bouncy castles in the world. An excellent place to
introduce the children to the delights of the countryside while having a
splendid day out at the same time.
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