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An absolute Corker
The champagne was flowing in Cork this weekend as it begins its reign as European Capital of Culture. Frank Murphy reports.
Cork kicked off 2005 by becoming the smallest ever city to be designated a European Capital of Culture. The city — the most westerly city in Europe to have received the accolade so far — takes its place alongside other worthy locations like Copenhagen, Madrid, Lille and Prague.
The celebrations officially began last Saturday with a spectacular fireworks display along the banks of the city’s River Lee.
But literally thousands of events are scheduled throughout the year, focusing on architecture, design, visual arts, film, music, theatre and dance.
Thomas Crosbie Holdings (TCH), owners of the Irish Post, are among the sponsors of Cork 2005.
And now that EasyJet has jumped on the bandwagon from January 28, adding to the choice of low-cost airlines flying into Ireland’s second city, getting to and from Cork is now easier than ever before.
Said festival director John Kennedy: “2005 will be truly extraordinary, with a programme of events that reflects Cork, Ireland and Europe. As the smallest city ever to be awarded this prestigious designation, Cork faced the challenge of taking its place alongside some of the great European cities that have previously held the title.
“Cork has answered that challenge emphatically and in its own unique and personal way.”
Ireland’s Minister for Arts, Sport and Tourism, John O’Donoghue has said that what will take place in Cork during 2005 will capture the creative personality of Europe as well as the soul of Cork and Ireland.
Mr O’Donoghue said: “Cork is a beautiful city, hidden and unexpected – a small city by European terms perhaps, but in 2005, through the designation of the European Capital City of Culture, Cork will take its place on the European stage.”
Lord Mayor of Cork Sean Martin spoke of Cork’s sense of newness.
He said: “It is hugely appropriate that now, as Cork is about to experience a great era of rejuvenation, the brilliant programme which has been created for Cork 2005 comes to fruition alongside the restored and enhanced cityscape of Cork streets”.
Certainly the city has been given a thorough spruce up for the occasion and is looking better than it ever has. New hotels have sprung up, the main Patrick Street thoroughfare has had a makeover and there is a genuine buzz all over the place.
It helps too that Cork’s hurling team won the All-Ireland title last year, adding to the sense of pride in the city.
Cork offers the visitor an altogether different, friendlier and more gentle experience than that on offer from its bigger sister in Dublin with its high prices, hype and overcrowded tourist traps. And that’s not to mention the infamous stag and hen parties that have marred the Temple Bar area in recent years.
With a population of just 126,000 there is less of the hustle and bustle in Cork than you get in Dublin and you are more free to roam the streets and see the sights. Besides that too, you’re only a short distance away from the austere beauty that is the countryside of Co. Cork. Take a trip out to Bantry while you are there and to Glengarriff, Durrus and Ballydehob.
And then there’s the stout – Murphy’s Stout is the local brew. It’s far better, smoother and creamier than its rival Guinness – and a tour of the city’s Beamish and Crawford brewery is a must-see tourist destination.
So too is a visit to Cork’s famous English Market the fresh produce in which puts all forms of Farmers’ Markets in Britain to shame.
Cork is blessed with some stunning architecture like the triple-spired St Finbarr’s Cathedral, St. Anne’s Church in Shandon with its 18th century bell, Fitzgerald Park where you will find the city museum and City Hall on the banks of the River Lee.
Cork also boasts one of the world’s biggest natural harbours with a myriad of islands and river estuaries to explore for the nautical among you.
Kinsale — famous for its annual gourmet festival in recent years — is just 15 miles away from Cork. The tip is to enjoy a meal in one of the many restaurants in the town away from gourmet festival time.
And the famous Blarney Stone, for those of you who haven’t yet kissed it, is just six miles away from the city centre at Blarney Castle.
Cork is a city like no other in Ireland and thoroughly deserving of its year of fame. There’s none of the brashness of Dublin about it, in whose shadows it has languished for too long. There’s also none of the dourness and gloom that you seem to find in Belfast.
And there’s none of the fey “if you want to meet real Irish people, head my way” feeling you sometimes get in Galway and the West of Ireland.
For more information about Cork European Capital of Culture 2005 and the programme of events, visit www.cork2005.ie.
Frank Murphy flew to Ireland with aerlingus.com. He was a guest at the Silver Springs Moran Hotel in Cork City.
Popping the Cork on the year ahead
Malcolm Rogers answers all your questions about Cork, Capital of Culture for 2005.
So what’s all this ‘European Capital of Culture’ business when it’s at home?
Well, it’s an award (and grant) from the EU in an effort to “contribute to bringing the peoples of Europe together”. It’s been going since 1986, and Cork has the honour of being the smallest city ever to have been awarded the honour — following in the footsteps of the likes of Salzburg, Munich and Dublin.
So why Cork?
Cork has long been a centre for arts and culture, attracting poets, painters and sculptors, and those connected with music and dance. The city already has a name for its cultural festivals — jazz, film, chorale music, traditional music — and these will be to the fore during the year’s celebration.
Go on, then. What can we expect?
OK, there’s the Jazz Festival, the Choral Festival, the Film Festival, the Blues Festival, and numerous traditional sessions — just to name a few happenings.
On the international side of things, Cork will host an appearance by the UK National Theatre, as well as a month specifically dedicated to the culture of each new accession country to the EU.
So when would be the best time to go?
Well, short of selling up and spending the whole year there, it depends what you’re interested in — with over 5,000 events during the year you’ve plenty of choice.
One of the most internationally famous events, The Choral Festival, begins on April 27 with a performance of Berlioz’s Te Deum by the Cologne Philharmonic Choir, Fleischmann Choir, Cork School of Music Senior & Youth Choirs and Cork School of Music Symphony Orchestra in the City Hall. For more information call 00 353 21 4223535.
I suppose you’ll get the men behind the choir there?
Very amusing, I’m sure. You’re going to go down a storm in Cork. To continue: the Film Festival begins in October with an international symposium on short films — officially A Celebration of the Art of the Short Film.
One hundred great short films from throughout the history of cinema will be shown, from early silent productions to contemporary digital work.
The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival also begins in October. From Dixieland to swing, bebop to traditional, this is the top jazz event in Ireland, and one of the foremost events in Europe. Every available venue is used and the sounds of jazz draw visitors into countless pubs and bars. The festival features hundreds of musicians from all over the world.
For those of us who haven’t spent much time in the rebel county, could you give us a quick rundown on the place and its history?
Cork, founded by St. Finbarr some 1,000 years ago, is perched on the banks of the River Lee. The second largest city in the Republic, it is a place of bridges and hills, with architecture dating from the late Georgian period through to Victorian.
The city centre, being an island surrounded by the Lee and the sea, has developed its own distinct ‘village’ atmosphere.
Any other buildings of note?
Well, there’s St. Finbarr’s Cathedral, an outrageous neo-Gothic limestone confection built in the 19th century for the sum of £100,000. You would hardly buy a decent house in Cork for that these days. But at the time it was a huge sum of money, and it provided for this magnificent cathedral.
Churches in days gone by were designed to dazzle the ordinary church-goers, and this place undoubtedly fitted the bill. The sheer overwhelming beauty of the stained glass windows, the red marble of the Bishop’s Throne, and the mosaic pavements manufactured by Italian artists still inspire awe — glittering stuff.
The Old City Gaol is well worth a visit. The gaol is, amusingly enough to those of us who enjoy our linguistics, usually referred to as the ‘Goal’, and even appears as such in some official guides.
Is there anywhere else I can go to find out more about the city’s inhabitants?
Nowhere better than the City Museum. It encompasses fairly recent Corkonian history — including the War of Independence — as well as the ancient history as well.
Are there any good shopping areas?
Of course there are! This is the Republic’s second city after all.
For the best in European retail therapy, head for the loop of streets made up of St. Patrick’s Street, Grand Parade and the South Mall. St. Patrick’s Street, the city’s main thoroughfare, has been given a comprehensive makeover with smart new pavements and theatrical street lighting designed by Catalan architect Beth
Gali.
For some classy restaurants as well as shops, wander round the nearby maze of paved alleyways which make up the Huguenot Quarter.
Will we have new places to visit this year?
The local authorities are building an Astronomy Centre at Blackrock Castle, and are in the process of developing a ›10million Heritage Centre at the Lee Waterworks which will showcase the best in modern sustainable development. And UCC has recently opened the new Glucksman Art Gallery.
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