| Adare Agenda Malcolm Rogers
takes a trip to Limerick.
By Malcolm Rogers
Here I am sitting in the sunshine in Adare, on a warm April’s day with
the cherry blossom beginning to bud, and the daffodils blooming on the river
banks. I’m debating whether to have a drink before lunch, or just wander
up through the thatched cottages. I wish you could be here with me, because
it really is a restful view, with a pleasing afternoon in prospect. It’s
a tough job, I know, but thank God it’s me doing it.
Anyway, seeing as you’re probably stuck back somewhere in Blighty, I
thought I should recount to you 10 things about Adare which might whet your
interest.
1) Adare is widely regarded as one of the prettiest towns in Ireland.
It stands proudly on the east bank of the River Maigue, a cluster of medieval
buildings, thatched cottages, abbeys, castles and antique shops.
2) Its ancient history is now lost, but probably stretches back
to the people who regarded the Celts as blow-ins, and the Gaels as economic
asylum seekers. Since then it has played host to Normans, English, Geraldines
and now — it has to be said — busloads of tourists.
3) Terrible history has continued into modern times. A local post
office was the site in 1996 of the killing of Garda Jerry McCabe by the
IRA. As so often in Ireland, melancholy history clashes jaggedly with the
soporific beauty of the surroundings.
4) There has long been a significant religious element in the
town — Franciscans, Augustinians and German Lutherans have all left their
mark. An Augustinian Priory sits hard by the bridge (straddling the Maigue
river with its 14 arches). Founded in 1316, many of the original buildings
remain in good condition. The main chapel still serves as the local Church
of Ireland, and is open to all, whether Protestant, Catholic or Dissenter.
Entering this place is like opening a door into Medieval Ireland. Spooky
and uplifting at the same time.
5) If you’re looking for the Catholic church, you’ll have to head
back into town and look for the Trinitarian Abbey. This place of worship
actually beats the Augustinians by over 80 years, having been founded in
1230 by, wait for it, “The Order of the Redemption of the Captives” — the
only house of this order left in Ireland today.
6) If you want a slightly longer dander, head south west towards
Rathkeale and two miles out of town you’ll come to the fantastically atmospheric
ruins of Garraunboy Castle, formerly owned by the Faltagh family.
7) Just in case you’re beginning to think it’s all castles, churches,
priories and monasteries (did I mention the Cistercian Abbey yet? Never,
mind I’ll get back to it), Adare also boasts several hostelries of note.
If you see a photo of Adare Manor, perched beside a river, and flanked by
formal gardens, you think for a moment you’ve got your brochures mixed up
and this a French chateau in the Loire valley or the like. But no, it’s
not the Languedoc — it’s the sweet County Limerick, and this huge gothic
revival pile was built in 1832 by the Second Earl of Dunraven. Dunraven’s
Dunroamin’ in fact.
The structure is a series of visual allusions to famous Irish and English
homes that the Dunravens admired. The lettered text carved into the front
of the south parapet reads: “Except the Lord build the house, then labour
is but lost that built it.”
You can visit the house, the formal gardens or stay a night — but it’ll
cost you. Prices for B&B begin at Stg£100 (Tel 353 61 396566)
If you’re walking in the garden tread softly — it is rumoured that this
is the hallowed ground where the potato was first introduced into these
islands from America.
8) It’s estimated that Limerick once had 2700 of them throughout
the county. No, not pubs — but tower houses, or strongholds which aren’t
quite grand castles. Matrix Castle (probably derived from the Irish ‘máthair’
or mother, or perhaps the ‘matres’ a sanctuary) is a couple of miles down
the road from Adare. Beautifully restored, the place is open for banquets,
tours, bed & breakfast. Tel 00-353-69 64284
9) Music there is aplenty, with both Bill Chawke’s and Collins’
Bar in the centre of Adare both boasting traditional sessions the year round.
But really there’s no shortage of charming hostelries to either wet your
whistle in, or indeed play your whistle in.
10) Overall, Adare is a great place. Just sorry you couldn’t have
been here with me. Of course, if you hurry, you could join me for lunch
— it’s just 15 minutes from Shannon Airport after all.
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