A cultural Corker
By Malcolm Rogers
Malcolm Rogers looks at what’s on offer in Cork, 2005’s European Capital of Culture.
 Cork can be lively enough without a celebration such as European Capital of Culture, so with that added ingredient it’s definitely a destination to strongly consider any time this year.
The last time Cork came to the attention of the cultural world at large was at the Great Cork Exhibition of 1902, which was successful enough, but the 2005 celebrations look set to bring the city even greater acclaim.
The idea of a European Capital of Culture is to “contribute to bringing the peoples of Europe together” — according to the official EU line. The award has been going since 1986, and Cork has the honour of being the smallest city ever to have been awarded the honour — following in the footsteps of the likes of Salzburg, Munich and Dublin.
Cork may be small in relation to other European cities, but it’s more ancient than most of them. Founded by Saint Finbarr some 1,000 years ago, it is a place of cathedrals, churches, bridges and hills, with architecture dating from the late Georgian period through to Victorian.
The city centre, being an island surrounded by the Lee and the sea, has developed its own distinct ‘village’ atmosphere. And Cork even has its own distinct slang — derived from sources as diverse (and surprising) as Hindustani (the Munster Fusiliers brought words home with them) and Shelta (the language of the Gipsies), and also including Irish, English, French, Norse, Dutch, German, etc. Just a few examples — ‘langered’ means drunk, ‘bockety’ means rickety, a ‘fooster’ means a tizzy.
St. Patrick’s Street, Grand Parade and South Mall on the downtown island buzz with fine restaurants and a pub music scene to rival Dublin’s.
 In the heart of Cork along its river quays is City Hall, the last such edifice to be built in Ireland. Burnt down by the British in 1920 and rebuilt in 1936, its steps served as a platform for President John F. Kennedy in 1963 when he addressed the largest crowd ever assembled in Cork.
It’s against this background that a whole range of festivals, concerts, international get-togethers and maybe even the seisúin are being held this year. Of particular note are the Jazz Festival, the Choral Festival, the Film Festival, the Blues Festival, and, on the international side of things, Cork will host an appearance by the UK National Theatre, as well as a month specifically dedicated to the culture of each of the 10 new accession countries to the EU, held at the Cork Vision Centre at St. Peter’s.
Poland is next up in June, the Slovak Republic in July, Cyprus in August, the Czech Republic in September and Malta in October.
Ireland, although not a new EU country, makes its own appearance in November.
Other notable events include the East Cork Early Music Festival in November, which brings together Irish and European musicians for a performance of the Monteverdi Vespers of 1610 in the North Cathedral.
The annual Woodford Bourne Cork Midsummer Festival returns June 14-25 with its céili bands and bonfires, followed by the Rory Gallagher Exhibition at
City Hall from June 21-September 3, where 50 years of rock ‘n’ roll are on display to honour this blues, jazz and rock icon, adopted son of the city.
This month also sees the world premiere of Corcadorca’s extraordinary production of Shakespeare’s The Merchant of Venice. From June 14-25, audiences will be follow the action through the streets of the city before the courtroom scene is filmed live and projected onto the front facade of the Courthouse.
 Also on show is an exhibit by Daniel Libeskind, the acclaimed architect who has been handed control of Ground Zero in New York. Set against the backdrop of Fota House, nothing can quite prepare you for your first sight of this amazing structure. On view for the first time since 2001, Eighteen Turns was commissioned by the Serpentine Gallery in London. Built in aluminium with angled planes, reflective surfaces, and interlocking spiralling shapes, Eighteen Turns will be on display until the end of the year.
Those of a sporting disposition will want to pencil July 2 into their diaries, as Cork welcomes Olympic champion Kelly Holmes to the Mardyke for the BUPA Ireland Cork City Sports.
The International Folk Dance Festival, which draws on local and European dancers from a variety of traditions, takes place across Cork from August 17-21.
Later in the year comes the Lee Swim, a 1930s tradition last held in 1992. Swimmers attempt to cross the River Lee between North Gate Bridge and City Hall on October 20 at 4.00pm, and from November 11-13 the Lesbian Fantasy Ball, an annual fancy-dress party, takes place with prizes on offer for the most stunning costumes on show.
The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival begins in October. From Dixieland to swing, bebop to traditional, this is the top jazz event in Ireland, and one of the foremost events in Europe.
Every available venue is used and the sounds of jazz draw visitors into countless pubs and bars. The festival features hundreds of musicians from all over the world.
Cork is generally seen as the cinematic capital of Ireland, so it’s no surprise that the top festival in many people’s view will be the 50th edition of the Cork Film Festival, lasting for 10 days beginning on October 16.
The Short Film Projects will screen the 100 greatest short films of all time. The International Short Story Festival takes place at University College Cork for the duration of the month of September, with a feast of readings and the awarding of an international prize of ›50,000 for the best collection of short stories published over the last two years.
And finally, if you’ve imbibed too much at some of Cork’s many drinking establishments, on September 18 there’s a fun walk/run with 7,000 participants taking to the streets. If you’re embarking on this, you should really learn the Cork national anthem. Altogether now:
“Where I sported and played ‘neath each green leafy shade on the banks of my own lovely Lee.”
Cork Vision Centre @ St. Peter’s
Located in the heart of Cork’s historic centre, and within walking distance of the city’s artistic, commercial and tourist attractions the Cork Vision Centre @ St. Peter’s offers visitors an opportunity to appreciate a fine example of conservation in action, and to enjoy visiting exhibitions.
The history of St. Peter’s Church stretches back to 1270 when King Henry III granted patronage of the church to the Bishop of Cork. Later, in 1380, a parliament sat there to nominate a governor of Ireland. The existing single volume church was completed in 1788, in the style of the London churches of Sir Christopher Wren.
Managed by Cork Civic Trust, the Centre’s 2005 programme is devoted to Enlargement! a continuously changing exhibition, displaying the artistic qualities of the ‘new’ states if the expanded EU. | 