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Sloping off to Sligo  The
organisers of the Sligo Live festival now in its third year have made
what you might think a somewhat logical step for one of Europe’s
most westerly parishes.
They’ve moved their festival indoors. You might wonder how it was
ever contemplated that it might be a good idea that an outdoor festival
in late autumn on Ireland’s Atlantic coast might be a good idea
but at any rate good sense has prevailed. The one tree in Donegal whose
job is to protect Sligo Bay from the ravages of winter gales can relax.
Mind you the Sligo people haven’t just been racking their brains
in the meteorological department. They’ve also been turning their
attention to the acts and have come up with a cracking bill for their
upcoming festival.
From Wednesday, October 24 until Monday, October 29 a variety of acts
drawn largely from the Irish and roots category will appear in select
intimate venues around Sligo. These include Cuban legends The Buena Vista
Social Club with their seductive Latin American rhythms, Alabama 3 —
whose song Woke Up This Morning earned them worldwide fame as the theme
tune for The Sopranos — traditional outfit Dervish (don’t
mention the Eurovision) and a Belfast-based new trad super group featuring
the talents of Mary McPartland, Tommy Peoples and Steve Cooney.
Other highlights include Roots Music Dance Mixes, a nightly Festival Club
with performance and session stages, exclusive master classes in Sligo
style traditional music, street theatre, set dancing céilí
and the celebrated and prestigious Fiddler of Dooney competition.
Also appearing will be At First Light, Jon Kenny’s hilarious comedy
reflecting the quirky side of Irish
life.
Other attractions are: Laughter Yoga, the All-Ireland Air Fiddle Competition
(the trad version of air guitar) and door-dancing — an age-old Irish
tradition whereby people swap the dance floor and take the door off its
hinges instead.
Tickets for Sligo Live are priced from ?20 to ?110 for a weekend pass
and are on sale now from Ticketmaster and all usual outlets.
For full festival line-up, dates, ticket and accommodation
information, log on to www.sligolive.ie
Sligo town
Sligo town’s first roundabout was constructed around a megalithic
tomb (Abbeyquarter North, in Garavogue Villas).
We certainly have some extraordinarily ancient remains in Ireland matched
only by some equally extraordinary town planners.
But odd planning decisions have not detracted from this handsome hilly
capital of a county steadily getting a reputation as a place where the
traditional and the trendy combine into an attractive mix.
Apart from the forthcoming music festival, there’s a lively arts
scene as well as a thriving Yeats Summer School. The work of WB Yeats
has always been associated with his Sligo roots and more can be learned
at the Yeats Memorial Building, Hyde Street.
The site is home of the annual Yeats summer school and host to a series
of seminars and workshops on Yeats’ work. The building also houses
the Sligo art gallery, which hosts up to 20 different exhibitions annually.
Tel 00 353 914 2693 www.yeats-sligo.com
Situated at the mouth of the Garavogue River, Sligo Town is widely believed
to have been built on, or in the immediate vicinity of, the site of Ptolemy’s
ancient town of Nagnata, the principal settlement on the west coast of
Ireland.
The 2nd century Greek geographer said that Benbulben and Truskmore to
the north, and Knockarea to the south guarded what would have been one
of Ireland’s major population centres.
In the medieval period Sligo was an important crossroads strategically
and commercially so no surprise to find Sligo Abbey, a Dominican Friary,
still standing (mostly).
It was founded by the Lord Chief Justice of Ireland in 1253 then destroyed
by fire in 1414 when it was rebuilt in its present form.
When Frederick Hamilton’s soldiers sacked Sligo Town in 1642, the
Abbey was razed to the ground. However much of the structure, including
the carved altar and cloisters, remain.
Between 1847 and 1851 over 30,000 people emigrated through the Port of
Sligo.
A memorial sculpture to the victims of The Famine stands on the Quay.
A plaque in the background headed ‘Letter to America, January 2,
1850’ carries a message from one family: “I am now, I may
say, alone in the world. All my brothers and sisters are dead and children
but yourself...
“We are all ejected out of Mr. Enright’s ground...
“The times was so bad and all Ireland in such a state of poverty
that no person could pay rent. My only hope now rests with you, as I am
without one shilling and as I said before I must either beg or go to the
poorhouse...
“I remain your affectionate father, Owen Larkin. Be sure to answer
this by return of post.”
By the way Coney Island in Sligo Bay is said to give its name to Coney
Island in New York. The Dutch also claim the name, citing Konijn Eiland,
as the source. Curiously enough it has the same Latin origin as the Irish
Oilean na gCoiníní — Island of Rabbits.
To contemplate all this, as thousands of Sligo people and travellers before
have done, head for Hargadon Brothers on O’Connell Street, Sligo
Town.
A rare treat for pub lovers, the establishment has remained true to its
original design since it opened in 1868. The grocery-bar shelves are still
in place as are the snugs and old pot-belly stove.
Tel: 00 353 71 917 0933.
The county
Sligo was the land of the MacDermotts until the 12th century, chartered
as a county in 1579. Before that — according to ancient legend —
it was the power base of the warrior Queen Medbh.
The exact details of these far distant times are hazy but one thing we
can be sure of — at one stage an awful lot more people lived in
this part of Connacht than do today. The area’s legacy of prehistoric
sites, some dating back 6,000 years, offers a fascinating insight into
how life was way back in the days of the Celtic Sabre-toothed Tiger.
Dotted with Bronze Age graves, dolmens, stone circles, ring forts and
many other archaeological sites, this is a treasure trove for anyone even
vaguely interested in Ireland’s history.
In later times this neck of the woods was less affected by the convulsions
of Norman rule than the rest of Ireland — although Sligo Town itself
saw plenty of action. But the countryside was left largely undisturbed
— another reason for the preservation of so many ancient sites.
With a varied landscape of fine coastline a throng of seaside resorts
will see to all your beach requirements — although autumn is more
a time for bracing walks on the foreshore followed by a ball of malt in
front of the turf fire rather than sunning yourself on Sligo’s sands.
Needless to say, all that sandy land is ideal for golf links — make
your way to Enniscrone or Coney Island to test your handicap against the
elements.
The two most popular resorts — within five miles of Sligo Town centre
— are Rosses Point and Strandhill. Both have become bywords in European
surfing circles; the great thing about the sport is that it doesn’t
really matter if it’s wet and windy. In fact those are ideal conditions
for the sport.
Strandhill beach hosts several surfing competitions throughout the year.
Surfing conditions are updated every 30 minutes on www.strandhillsurfcam.com.
Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, the Perfect Day surf school
(www.perfectdaysurfing.com) can teach you everything you need to know
about the waves.
If riding the big rollers leaves you cold maybe horseback would suit better.
A number of trails wend round the coastline including the Sligo Trail
which combines beach riding (truly and utterly exhilarating) with a trek
through the county’s magical countryside.
Even WB Yeats gets in on the horsey act. The Yeats Sligo Horse Trail takes
four days and should you choose to cross the county on-the-hoof you’ll
be able to take his epitaph literally: “Cast a cold eye on life,
on death. Horseman pass by.”
Where to eat in Co. Sligo
n Fiddlers Creek, Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town
Sligo Town has several restaurants offering a wide range of traditional
and international cuisine.
That old Co. Sligo favourite Thai style prawns is to be highly recommended
but if fish isn’t your thing — you don’t believe in
cod, so to speak — then the Fiddler’s has loads of beef and
pork dishes, plus up-market burgers and ribs.
This is no place for people with bird-like appetites.
Tel: 00 353 71 9141866
n Bistro Bianconi, O’Connell Street, Sligo Town
I always feel that the best number for a dinner party is two: Myself and
a damn good head waiter. You’ll get exactly that at the Bistro —
as well as excellent pesto, pasta and pizza.
Tel: 00353 71 9141744
n The Atrium Café, The Model Arts & Niland Centre, The Mall,
Sligo Town.
They say that the food in art galleries is usually about on a par with
the murals in restaurants.
Well, one huge exception is the Atrium which is set in one of the best
galleries in town.
The cuisine is contemporary (roasted vegetables with polenta type of thing)
but delicious and moderately priced. Even the simplest dish is served
with panache — the sandwiches are best described as “filling
with a little bread”.
Tel 00 353 71 914 1418
n Bar Bazaar, 35 Market Street, Sligo Town
This is a long-established re-victualling stop worth popping in to if
you only want coffee or a decent brew. Sandwiches, excellent desserts
or just a café latte Sligo-style.
Tel 00 353 914 4749
n The Gourmet Parlour, Bridge Street, Sligo Town
Long-established home-cooking and shop and café. Renowned for its
cakes and desserts — an ideal waypoint.
Tel: 00 353 71 914 4617
n Poppadom, O’Connell Street, Sligo Town
If you’re suffering withdrawal systems for your weekly curry, head
for Poppadom’s, widely acclaimed as the best Indian in the North
East.
This is now the fifth of the chain to open in Ireland.
Tel: 00 353 71 914 7171
n Eithna’s Seafood Restaurant, The Harbour, Mullaghmore
If you fancy a day trip out of Sligo Town head for Mullaghmore, just over
20 miles away, and get yourself down to the Harbour.
Here you’ll find a simple building with tantalising aromas wafting
out.
Fresh fish, shellfish, lobster — all cooked and served imaginatively.
Tel: 00 353 71-916 6407
n The Waterfront, Rosses Point
For soul-warming comfort food, lazy afternoon teas, piping-hot fish dishes
on a blowy beach and some of the finest just-hauled-on-board seafood,
head out of town to Joe Grogan’s place in Rosses Point.
Tel 00 353 917 7122
n The Clarion Hotel, Clarion Road, Ballinode
Boasts two recommended restaurants. Modern European and contemporary Irish
food at Sinergie, informal tasty Asian in Kudos. Mid-priced.
Tel 00 353 71 9119000
Accommodation
Despite a Sligo camping shop offering gear for sale with the sign: “Now
is the winter of our discount tent” most people will probably want
to stay in something a bit more solid over the winter.
n The Glasshouse, Sligo Town
Towering over the banks of the Garavogue river, The Glasshouse in Sligo
is what’s known as a design hotel or boutique hotel — quirkiness,
colour, pop art, cutting-edge design and architecture.
www.theglasshouse.ie
Tel 00 353 910 4300
n The Celtic Seaweed Baths, Strandhill, Co. Sligo
At the Celtic Seaweed Baths you’ll lie in a bath full of gooey seaweed
and hot seawater.
The theory is simple enough — the heat releases all the seaweed’s
“rich, silky essential oils so your body feels smooth, buoyant and
luxurious” and funnily enough, it does.
The baths are located on the esplanade at Strandhill looking out over
the Atlantic Ocean. The seaweed baths are an old tradition in Co. Sligo;
the original bathhouse on this site was built early in the last century.
The Celtic Baths also offer aromatherapy massage, Swedish massage, scalp
massage and lymphatic drainage massage.
Tel 00 353 71 9168686
www.celticseaweedbaths.com
n Temple House, Ballymote
Spoil yourself rotten by staying at Temple House, Ballymote, Co. Sligo.
To visit this family-owned country house on a 1,200-acre estate can barely
be considered a hotel reservation, more of an invitation to stay with
well-heeled friends for the weekend. There are only five bedrooms so you’re
about as far away from a busy central Dublin hotel as is possible.
Venture out of Temple House and you’re in the middle of spectacular
Yeats Country and a stone’s throw from Lough Gill, Parkes Castle
and Lissadell House.
Meanwhile back at Temple House, there’s the gourmet cooking, with
food prepared from fruit and vegetables from the kitchen garden, lamb
from the farm, pike and perch from the lake if you catch it.
Tel 00 353 71 83329
E-mail: guest@templehouse.ie
n Yeats Country Hotel Spa and Leisure Centre Rosses Point
This three-star centre in Rosses Point Village is just five minutes drive
from
Sligo Town and directly opposite Co. Sligo’s 18-hole championship
golf course.
It’s also just five minutes walk from Rosses Points Blue Flag beach.
For the weekend of October 27-28 room plus breakfast for ?130 for two
people sharing ?65 each) available at www.centralr.com
n Castle Dargan Hotel, Ballygalwey
Castle Dargan Hotel is a luxury four-star deluxe resort offering superior
accommodation in a country estate setting, with an 18-hole championship
golf course plus Ireland’s first medi-spa.
Eight miles from Sligo Town.
For the weekend of October 27-28 room plus breakfast for ?160 for two
people sharing ?80 each) available at www.centralr.com
n Sligo City Hotel, Quay Street
Located in the heart of Sligo next door to the City Hall the three-star
Sligo City Hotel is an impressive and comfortable hotel right in the middle
of the action.
For the weekend of October 27-28 room plus breakfast for ?99 for two people
sharing ?49.50) available at www.centralr.com
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