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Galway’s got the lot
By Malcolm Rogers
 Malcolm Rogers visited Galway and found historical and cultural riches to match the city’s famous nightlife.
As God said when he was creating Connacht — “Right here’s Galway; now do you want Mayo with that?” And of course they didn’t need Mayo — or anywhere else for that matter. This is one county which can truly stand on its own merits.
Galway city, the main metropolis of the county, and indeed the whole of Connacht, is increasingly seen as the culture, cuisine and craic capital of Ireland. Temple Bar has been ceded to the visitors, Belfast city centre is still seen (erroneously) as the preserve of the Calvinist not the Celt, and Cork is for music lovers and bell ringers.
But Galway, conveniently situated on the edge of the Atlantic — great views guaranteed — is the place to go for cask-conditioned, party-size, craic n’ roll.
Cultural events include the Galway Races, the Arts Festival, the Film Festival and of course the Oyster Festival, but really you can go any time and take in the pubs, sessions, restaurants, theatres — or merely walk through the city’s distinctive, handsome streets.
History assails you from every corner as you stroll about, but just remember that in 1518 the Corporation of the city ruled that “neither O’ nor Mac shall strut and swagger through the streets of Galway” — so mind how you go!
Corribean island
The River Corrib, or to give it its legal title, the River of Galway, courses through the city. The Vikings used the river in AD 927 on their way to plunder and pillage — and it has been used ever since for purposes ranging from the nefarious to the noble.
The river is even believed to have given the area its name. It seems a woman called Gailleamh, the daughter of King Breasal, drowned in the river — to assuage his grief the river was ever after known as Gailleamh, anglicised over time to Galway.
On more solid ground — in both senses — the walls of Galway date back to 1270, with most of the city enclosed by the 15th century. Most of the walls are gone now, but the body of the town, centred on Shop and Quay Streets, still retains the feel of an ancient, handsome, large village — one with a disproportionate amount of places to eat and drink. I can vouch for that.
Tribes, treaties and entreaties
For centuries, thanks to a treaty signed by Richard II, Galway was virtually a city state ruled by an oligarchy of the 14 tribes of Galway — mainly Norman and Welsh merchant families. The main tribe was Lynch — who are said to have given the English language the eponymous word for hanging.
Being in the market for this kind of linguistic curio, the Lynch Memorial had to be my first stop. Situated in Market Street, the Lynch stone begins its proclamation with the chilling words: “This memorial of the stern and unbending justice of the Chief Magistrate of this city, James Lynch FitzStephen, elected Mayor, 1493, who condemned and executed his own guilty son, Walter, on the spot . . . . “
It seems that Wally had indeed lived up to his name, stupidly working himself into a lather of jealousy over a woman, stabbing her Spanish admirer. Despite entreaties from the rest of the Lynch mob — mother, brothers, etc. — the stern father passed the sentence of death on the son.
However, the Lynch mob turned out to be exactly the opposite, and no one could be found to hang the blaggard. So old man Lynch did it himself.
I strolled off, past Lynch’s Castle — which now seems to house the Allied Irish Bank — in the direction the Quays, deep in thought. This surely gives a whole new meaning to the expression suspended sentence, I mused to myself.
Simply divine
Christopher Columbus celebrated Mass in the Collegiate Church of St Nicholas in Galway, founded in 1320. It’s said he stopped off here on his way to find America, asking for divine guidance. The magnificent Church is dedicated to St Nicholas of Myra — in other words Santa Claus — so they have special services come Crimbo.
I wandered round the old building, Ireland’s largest medieval church, trying to imagine what Columbus might have made of Galway — I mean, was he ever tempted just to chuck the whole idea of heading out west and settle down with a nice Galway girl? I suppose it’s as well he didn’t, or today we wouldn’t have cigarettes, Pop Idol, the Dukes of Hazzard or George Bush. Mind you, on second thoughts . . .
Enough day-dreaming. I had to make my way to the Spanish Arch and Spanish Parade, perhaps the most distinctive part of Galway.
This 16th century structure recalls the trade formerly carried on with Spain; its main purpose was to protect galleons unloading wine and spirits. A very rum do, you might say.
Grape expectations
The Galway influence can still be found in the winemakers of the Bordeaux region today. A group of wine merchants left Galway in the 1700s to escape the persecution of the Penal Laws; Irish merchants in various parts of the continent at this time were crucial in the development of Atlantic trade.
Felipe Fernández-Armesto, of the Modern History Faculty of Oxford University says: “The complexities of Atlantic trade in the 18th century can be appreciated from the perspective of a dynasty of Irish merchants. Until recently their activities were almost unknown to scholarship, yet their place in the commerce of the day was primordial in importance.”
France and Spain were both favourite destinations for Irish wine merchants, and the men from Galway fetched up everywhere from Tenerife to Bordeaux. Merchants who had already developed trading links with the continent left for Bordeaux and made it their new home free from the oppressive laws they had encountered in Ireland.
Today the Galway connection is still strong, particularly among the Bordeaux producers Château Lynch Bages and Château Kirwan.
A passion for fine wines still remains in Galway today. The Merchants Wine Club (Corn Store, Middle Street) is one of Galway’s leading retail outlets with over 400 wines stocked here.
But you’ll likely be wanting to know about my journeys round some of the more traditional haunts. Busker Browne’s Bar had to be my first stop, as I’ve heard so much about it lately. On Cross St, this relatively new pub and bistro has an Old Galway ambience, with alcoves, nooks and crannies.
There’s traditional music during the week and Dixieland jazz on Sunday afternoons. Roisin Dubh (Upper Dominick Street), on the other hand, is an old established pub, featuring big name artistes (traditional to world music) as well as sessions and ballad groups.
If you want a more “Where Irish Eyes are Smiling” cum “Wild Rover” sort of a night — and who doesn’t the odd time? — then head for An Púcán in Forster Street. This is particularly popular with the visitors, and the atmosphere is only mighty.
Gourmet Galway
Galway City is today famous for its culinary delights. Once the wine capital of Ireland it was only natural that the merchants of the city developed a reputation for fine food. The ethos remains and Galway probably boasts more restaurants per square mile than any other part of Ireland.
Local and continental food exists side by side, but, of course, Galway is world famous for its oysters. However, it can be surprisingly difficult to find one outside oyster festival time.
The Archway Restaurant Victoria Place, a small restaurant hidden away in a little lane off Eyre Square, is a good place to begin your search — at the very least you’ll get a fine selection of local seafood. Contemporary Irish cooking, the standard is really excellent and the staff friendly. Phone 00 353 91 563693.
Kirbys, on Cross St (00 353 91 569404), is a moderately priced restaurant located in the heart of Galway, next to Quay St. Kirbys offers a general, modern Irish/European style with a varied menu and friendly atmosphere.
The Malt House, Old Malt Mall, High Street (00 353 91 567866), is very popular with the locals, serving excellent meals in a traditional-Irish style with some modern influences; perfect for seafood.
Galway, then, has charms a plenty, including music, restaurants and some of the finest festivals in Europe. It also has one distinct advantage over all other cities. It is situated on the fringes of some of the wildest, most dramatic scenery in Europe — Connacht’s breathtaking coastline and mountains.
It’s an ideal place to base yourself in order to plot trips out to Connemara — and still be back in your hotel in time for a quiet couple of pints — followed by about 10 noisy ones. Sláinte!
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